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Purty Pink Promises -18" doll =lots of pics PDF added


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Purty Pink Promises -18” doll

 

the PDF is here:purtypink.pdf


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SW yarn in 2 colours
4.5mm and 5.mm hooks
Beads as you like (23 if you use them)

Romper…

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Legs…

Ch 20 and join.

Rows 1-2: dc evenly (20)

Rows 3-8: increase by one at first or last st. (26dc)

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the seven stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2: work evenly in dc. Break off yarn.

Row T3: locate Centre Front st then move 2 st to the right and att yarn in back loop. Work 2dc in back loops only, dc around then work dc in the remaining 2 front loops.

Row T4-9: dc evenly but work a button hole on row 7 (ch1/sk1/dc in last at edge)

Row 10: work 8 decreases – 2 on each back section and 4 across front section. (51 dc with an overlap of 4 (2+2)sts at closure)




Divide for front and back sections…
The divisions are:
12-back sk 2, 23-front, sk 2, 12 back

Row 11: dc in 11, 2dc in next, turn.

Row 12: 2dc in 1st, dc to end.

Row 13: dc to last, 2dc in last.

Row 14: 2dc in 1st, dc to end.

Row 15: dc to last, 2dc in last. Break off leaving a goodly tail for sewing shoulder seam later.

Sk 2 sts and att yarn in next. Work over 23 sts.
Front portion

Row 11-15: work as for back with increases on both ends. On the last row, work some sc to create a neck area in the middle sts. Break off and tidy ends.

Right back

Att yarn and work to mirror left front but work buttonholes on rows 11 & 15.

Stitch shoulders together then work a sc/ch 4 loop trim around armhole.



Bottom lace…

Row 1-work a sc/ch 3loop/sk 1 around.
Row 2- work sc in sc/ ch 4 loops
Row 3- work sc in sc/ ch 5 loops.
Row 4- work sc in sc/ ch 6 loops
Row 5- work sc in sc/ ch 7 loops

I used beads to pin down the lapels as they did not want to behave. J

Pinafore
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W/ SW yarn and 5.mm hook (for lacy fabric) ch 47

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3, ch 10, sk 15, hdc in 8, ch 10, sk15, hdc in 4.

Row 2: hdc in ea hdc and ch. (36 hdc)

Rows 3-4: hdc evenly

Row5: dc in 2, sk 1, [3dc group in next, sk 2] 10 times, 3dc in next, sk 1, dc in last.

Row 6: 2dc in 1, *shell {2dc, ch1, 2dc] in middle of 3dc group* repeat to end, dc in 2

Row 7: dc in 2, shell in shell, dc in sp between shell* rep to last 2, dc in 2. Note: do not work that extra dc next to the first/last dc.

Row 8: dc in 2, *shell in shell, 2dc in dc* rep to end. Dc in 2.

Row 9: dc in 2, *shell in shell, V-st [dc, ch1, dc] in space between 2dc sets* rep to end, dc in 2.

Row 10: dc in 2, *shell in shell, Tr shell {dc, tr, ch1, tr, dc} in V-st* rep to end, dc in 2.

Row 11-14: dc in 2: *shell in shell, Tr shell in Tr shell* rep to end, dc in 2.

Row 15: work as before but work your beads in shells in place of a ch 1. Break off and tidy all ends.
With right side out (beads tell you the right side)->

Closures… thread 2 beads (or buttons) on your yarn before you start then att yarn at top left edge, sc in st then ch 10, work bead in next then slst back along chain, sc to bottom of left edge then work as for 1st closure. Secure ends then break off and tidy all ends.

As you can see it can be worn either way. I think I made it a shade too long – 2 fewer rows would have been better – you decide based on your wants and your yarn.

Kerchief…
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w/ SW yarn 5.mm hook ch 5

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, another dc in 4th ch from hook.

Row 2: and subsequent rows: ch 4, dc in 1st dc, V-st between previous V-sts, V-st in last dc.

Continue as established as far as you wish your kerchief to be… I did 9 rows.

Edging… sc in last dc, work sc/ch4 loops around outside edge. Fit them is as you like but work [sc. Ch4, sc] in point. Break off and tidy ends.

Ties…

Ch 25, sc across the top edge of the kerchief, ch 25. break off and tidy all ends.

Basket…

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WW yarn and 4.5mm hook (to start)
Ch 7…

Row 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 4, 4 sc in last ch, sc in 4, 2 more sc in beg.

Row 2: work in hdc around and increase as needed to keep basket flat.

Row 3: work in Back Loops Only…hdc around working 2 increases on each end

Row 4: hdc evenly around.

Row 5: work reverse sc around. NOTE work your handle when you are ¾ around. Chain 20 and join then slst back and complete Rsc.

Rsc instructions:
http://www.crochetcabana.com/stitches/stitches-reverse_sc.htm

I made the white basket first but decided it didn’t quite do the job so I found a ‘basket’ colour and did it again. J


Beaded Promise Bracelets

 

These promise bracelets show a promise to be a good friend.

 

 

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thread a bunch of pony beads onto your WW yarn – 3 for each bracelet. I used a 5.mm hook to get more ease in the bands.

… ch 4, work in your 3 beads, ch 4 and break off. Tie the ends together and cut ends short.

How to work w/ beads in crochet…




Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2011

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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