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Bon Chiot -18" doll; image intense


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Bon Chiot– 18” doll

 

Bon chiot = good puppy.

 

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The Hat…

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WW yarn, 5.mm, 5.5mm hooks

 

Pompom makers…

 

I have a full set of these pompom makers – they are not cheap but they are very good.

 

http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran2264-0.html

 

I could only find UK sources but I got mine from Mary Maxim a couple of years back.

 

 

 

Row 1: Ch 2. 9hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (9hdc)

 

Row 2: 2hdc in each.

 

Row 3: *2 hdc in 1, hdc in next* rep to end.

 

Row 4: *hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next* rep to end. (32 hdc)

 

Row 5: flip crown good side down and work FPsc around making 4 increases. (36 FPsc)

 

Row 6: hdc around working 4 increases between previous row increases. (40 hdc)

 

Row 7-9: hdc evenly. Break off and tidy ends. Count your break off point as Centre Back.

 

Row 10 : count forward 14 sts to the right of CB and place marker. Count 14 sts to the left and place marker. Att yarn in rt side st. and hdc to left marker. (28 hdc)

 

Row 11-13 hdc across working 1 dec near each end.

 

Row 14: work in hdc and make 4 dec. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

Ties… ch 30, hdc across lower edge, ch 31. slst in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch and hdc to beginning.

 

Ears… work a 4sc ear on both sides of head from row 4. work 2 dec and break off. Attach pompoms on each ear and a large pompom on top of head.

 

 

 

Sweater…

 

 

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4.5mm hook and a light WW yarn (12 wpi) Chain 30…

 

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea across.(29hdc)

 

Row 2: *hdc in 1, FPdc around next* rep to last, hdc in last.

 

Row3: *sc in 2, 2 sc in next* rep to end. (I have 37 sts at this point – do some fudging to get 37 if yours did not come out that way.

 

Row 4: dc in 4, [2dc in next 2, dc in 7] 3 times, 2dc in next 2, dc in 4.

 

Row 5: dc in 5, [2dc in next 2, dc in 9] 3 times, 2dc in next 2, dc in 5.

 

Row 6: dc in 6, [2dc in next 2, dc in 11] 3 times, 2dc in next 2, dc in 6.

 

Row 7: dc in 7, [2dc in next 2, dc in 13] 3 times, 2dc in next 2, dc in 7.

 

Row 8: dc in 8, [2dc in next 2, dc in 15] 3 times, 2dc in next 2, dc in 8.

 

Row 9: dc in 10, dc in sp between next st, sk 19, dc in sp between st, dc in 19, dc in sp bet sts, sk 19, dc in sp bet sts, dc in 10.

 

Row 10: dc evenly around.

 

Row 11: work sc/ch 1/sk1 across. End w/ sc.

 

Row 12: dc in 1st, V-st in every ch 1 sp, dc in last.

 

Row 13: dc in 1st, V-st in every V-st, dc in last.

 

Edging round… work sc in 1st, work [sc, ch2,sc in ea V-st, sc along back edge, along neck edge work sc then FPdc around FPdc from row 2. sc along rt back edge working in button loops as you go.

 

 

Sleeves…

Work in dc around armholes. Work 1 dec on ea of 3 random rows. Edge with sc/ch3 loops in ea st. Break off and tidy all ends. Feel free to make the sleeves any length that suits you.

 

 

Pants …

 

 

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with pink WW yarn and 5.mm hook ch 25 and join

 

Row 1: dc evenly (25 dc)

 

Row 2-6: dec by one on ea row. (20 dc at row 6)

 

Row 7: dc evenly.

 

Row 8: inc by 1.

Row 9: dc evenly

 

Row 10: inc by 1

 

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

 

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

 

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.

 

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the seven stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

 

Row T2-T4: work evenly in dc.

 

Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases).

 

Row T6: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

 

 

The Puppy Purse…

 

 

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WW yarn in 2 colours and 5.5mm hook… ch 4

 

Row 1: 11 dc in 4th ch from hook – join. (12 dc)

 

Row 2: *hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next..

 

Row 3: hdc evenly around.

Row 4: work in hdc but work a dec at ea side and in back. That is 3 dec. Break off white.

 

Attach CC at rt side with back facing you. (the back is wherever you did the dec)

 

C-row 1:Work sc across 8 sts..

 

C-row 2: work in Front Loops only and sc in ea sc.

 

C-row 3: hdc evenly across

 

C-row 4: 2hdc in 1, hdc to last, 2 hdc in last.

 

C-row 5: sc in 1st, 2 hdc in next 2, sc in next, ch 3 tightly, sk 2, 2 hdc in next 2, sc in last. Break off.

 

Ears and strap…

 

Hold the purse upside down and attach yarn at side… ch 10 (ear- will use short rows)

 

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2, slst in next, ch1 turn, sc in 3 sc, ch1 and turn, hdc along the whole row, slst into purse side (secures the ear) ch 25 and slst into other side. Ch 10 and repeat as for 1st ear. End w/ slst into side. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

Locate where to put your nose (black button) and then locate your eyes. It is important (I have learned) to place the eyes close to the level of the nose. J the nose works as your closure.

 

 

 

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2011

 

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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