BBL - 10" baby Image intense

[darski]

BBL* – 10” baby doll

 

*Berenguer Baby Layette

 

 

 

I generally try to avoid the brand names for dolls but this one is so notable to all who love them...

 

 

 

 

SW yarn, WW yarn, Fake Fur yarn

 

I can’t really give quantities but the blankie weighs 2ounces.

 

4.mm hook, 4.5mm hook, 5.mm hook, 6.mm hook

 

2 hair elastics –about 1.5”

Buttons as you wish

 

DNBO = do not break off.

Pdc is used for an undifferentiated Post dc – do front or back Pdc as needed to keep pattern.

V-st = [dc, ch1, dc]

 

Up/Down stitch:

http://crochet.about.com./library/weekly/aa010102.htm

 

Nightgown…

 

 

 

4.mm hook and white SW yarn ch 26

 

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook, *dc in next, 2 dc in next* repeat to end. (35 dc)

 

Row 2: dc in 3, [2dc in next 2, dc in 7] 3 times., 2dc in next 2, dc in 3.

 

Row 3: dc in 4, [2dc in next 2, dc in 9] 3 times., 2dc in next 2, dc in 4.

 

Row 4: dc in 5, [2dc in next 2, dc in 11] 3 times., 2dc in next 2, dc in 5.

 

Row 5: dc in 6, [2dc in next, dc between sts, 2dc in next, dc in 13] 3 times., 2dc in next , dc between sts, 2dc in next, dc in 6

 

Row 6: dc in 8, 2 dc in next, skip 17, 2 dc in next, dc in 17, 2dc in next, sk 17, 2dc in next, dc in 8.

 

Row 7: dc in every dc and into armhole spaces.

 

Rows 8 -> continue in dc to as long as you want your nightgown to be. Work a random increase on every row.

 

 

 

Sleeves…

Work some rows of dc around ea armhole opening if you wish.

 

Trim…

 

With colour of your choice, ch 20, sc around neck edge, ch 20 and break off. You can add the bunny trim, scalloped edges or something similar if you want such pretties.

 

Note: I felt this gown was a bit skimpy so it wouldn’t hurt to start with 4 more chains – one for ea front and back section.

 

The Sweater Set…

 

 

Sweater…

 

Ch 29

 

Row 1:dc in 3rd ch from hook *dc in next, 2dc in next* rep to end (41 dc)

 

Row2: dc in 2, BPdc around next, dc in 2, 3dc in next, dc in 9, 3dc in next, dc in 2, BPdc around

next, dc in 3, BPdc around next, dc in 2, 3dc in next, dc in 9, 3dc in next, dc in 2, BPdc around next, dc in 2.

 

 

Row 3: work as established. Work dc in dc, Pdc around Pdc, and work a 3dc group in the middle dc of a 3dc group.

 

Row 4: dc in 2, BPdc around Pdc, dc in next, BPdc around next, dc in 2 3dc group in 3dc group, dc in 13, 3dc group in 3dc group, dc in 2, BPdc around next, dc in 1, BPdc around Pdc, dc in 1, BPdc around next, dc in 1, BPdc around Pdc, dc in2m 3dc group in 3dc group, dc in 13, 3dc group in 3dc group, dc in 2,

 

 

 

Row 5: dc in 2, FPdc around Pdc, dc in 1, FPdc around Pdc, dc in 3, 2dc in next, sk 15, 2dc in next, continue across back in established pattern, stop with 2dc in 3dc group, sk 15, 2dc in next, dc in 3, FPdc around Pdc, dc in 1, FPdc around Pdc, dc in 2.

 

Row 6: work as established but work 2 dc in each armhole opening.

 

Row 7: work dc in each dc but work 2 dc in (not around) each Pdc.

 

Edging… hdc along rt front edge, work sc, [ch2 sc in next] along neck edge, hdc along left front edge working button loops as you go, along bottom edge work sc/ch3 .

 

Sleeves… work dc rows around armhole opening if you want them. Remember to leave room for your sc/ch3 trim row. With this doll, I find sleeves to be … challenging.

 

 

 

Bonnet…

 

w/ SW yarn and 4.mm hook ch 4…

 

Row 1: 9 dc in 4th ch from hook. (10 hdc)

 

Row 2: *dc in dc, FPdc around same st* rep to end.

 

Row 3: 2 dc in dc, FPdc around FPdc* rep to end.

 

Row 4: *2dc in dc, dc in next, FPdc around FPdc, * rep to end.

 

Row 5: 2dc in dc, dc in next 2, FPdc around FPdc, * rep to end.

 

Row 6: [dc in 3, FPdc around FPdc,]8 times, dc in 3, turn.

 

Rows 7&9: hdc evenly across

 

Row 8&10: *Hdc in 3, FPdc around FPdc,* rep to end. End w/ 3 hdc

 

Row 11: Work in BLO… *sc in 1, ch3, sk 1, sc in next* rep to end

 

Row 12: work in both loops where you can and in BLO where needed. Hdc in 1, hdc dec, hdc to last 3, hdc dec, hdc in last.

 

Ties… ch 25, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook break off and tidy all ends. Att yarn on other side and repeat.

 

Booties…

 

 

Ch 4…

 

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in next, 6hdc in last, hdc in next, 1 more sc in beg st.

 

Row 2: 2 hdc in 2, hdc in 2, 2hdc in 5, hdc in 1, 2 hdc in last.

 

Row 3: Work in BLO… sc evenly around

 

Row 4: work in dc around – on the 5 front sts work [FPdc, dc, FPdc, dc, Fpdc]

 

Row 5: work dc in dc and FPdc around FPdc, work a dec at the beginning and the end of round.

 

Row 6: work sc/ch1/sk1 around.

 

Row 7: slst into ch 1 sp, sc in sp, ch 3

 

 

Romper set…

 

4.5mm hook and SW yarn… chain 27

 

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook,*dc in 1, 2dc in next* rep to end (38 dc)

Row 2: dc in 5, [V-st in next, dc in 8] 3 times, V-st in next, dc in 5.

Row 3: dc in ea dc, V-st in V-st but work 1 inc on ea back section an 2 increases at centre front sts. (4 increases in addition to V-sts)

Row 4: dc in dc and V-st in V-st as above but work a stitch between the stitches of previous increases in backs and front.

Row 5: sc up to and into V-st, ch2, sc in next V-st, sc up to and into the next V-st, ch 2, sc in next V-st and to end.

Row 6: sc in ea sc and ch (46 sc).

 

Row 7: dc in 4, 3dc in next, dc in 6, 3dc in next, dc in5, 3dc in next, dc in 10, 3dc in next, dc in 5, 3dc in next, dc in 6, 3dc in next, dc in 4.

 

Row 8: dc evenly across

 

Row 9: dc in 5, 3dc in next, dc in 8, 3dc in next, dc in 7, 3dc in next, dc in 12, 3dc in next, dc in 7, 3dc in next,, dc in 8, 3dc in next, dc in5. Join.

 

Row 10: dc evenly.

 

J This is where you have to crochet by the seat of your pants. J

 

You will need your 2 hair elastics to form the leg holes and you have to choose which and how many stitches you want for the crotch portion.

 

Use a marker to note your half way point… just fold romper in half for this- no need to count.

You will need to work your crotch stitches twice over in that you will begin by working two of them, work over the elastic for the first leg, work 2 more hdc crotch stitches that you connect by slip st as you make them into the first 2 sts you made. You will then work 2 more hdc for crotch sts and then work around the next elastic for the leg hole to the last 2 sts. Work hdc in these and connect with sl st into the worked stitches from the front.

 

I think it might have been better to work one more row evenly for a fuller look but do what works for you. J

 

Work a trim row along the neck and back edges. I like a simple ch 5 loop for the neck trim and I always work in button loops as I word down the --left for boy, right for girl—edge. It’s up to you to trim the outfit. I rather liked the plain look with just a bow at the front.

 

 

 

The Tam…

 

 

w/ SW yarn (as for romper) and 5.mm hook ch 4:

 

Row 1: 9 dc in 4th ch from hook. (10dc)

 

Row 2: *dc in dc, FPdc around same st* rep to end.

Row 3: 2 dc in dc, FPdc around FPdc* rep to end.

 

Row 4: *2dc in dc, dc in next, FPdc around FPdc, * rep to end.

 

Row 5: 2dc in dc, dc in next 2, FPdc around FPdc, * rep to end.

 

Rows 6-7: continue evenly in established pattern.

 

Row 8: *dc in dc, dc dec, dc in next, FPdc around FPdc* rep to end.

 

Row 9: *hdc in 3, FPdc around FPdc, hdc dec, hdc in next, FPdc around FPdc* rep to end.

 

Rows 10-11: work hdc in hdc and FPdc around FPdc . Break off and tidy all ends.

 

Blankie…

 

 

The large hook is used to create a softer fabric. This blankie is just an alternating dc/ch1 mesh with a border all round. When working the rows, you always have your 3 dc border and you will have 4 dc on alternate rows due to the pattern.

 

 

w/ SW yarn and 6.mm hook ch 52…

 

 

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in ea ch across. (50 dc)

 

Row 2: dc in 3, *ch1, sk 1, dc in ~next*, end with dc in 4.

~ can be either dc or space.

 

Continue working row 2 to 24 rows.

 

Row 25: dc in each st and ch 1 sp. Break off and tidy ends.

 

Please note: it is more important that it be square so be flexible in the number of rows you make. Fold the blankie in half on the diagonal to check for square-ness.

 

 

Bunting bag

 

 

w/ WW yarn and 5.5 mm hook ch 32…

 

Rnd 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch to last, 3 dc in last, dc in each chain (the other side) to beginning, 1 more dc in beginning ch.

 

Rnd 2: dc evenly. Secure but DNBO Yarn. Attach fake fur. Remember tht you get the best fur look from the Wrong side so work from the inside of the bunting to do that.

 

Rnd 3: hdc evenly around. Break off FF.

 

(use up/down stitch)

Rnd 4: work *sc in one, dc in next* around

 

Rnd 5-6: work sc’s in dc’s and dc’s in sc’s around. Break off yarn and tidy ends.

 

Find the Centre Front stitch and then move 2 sts to the right of that and att yarn in back loop.

 

Rnd 7: work hdc in Back Loops Only in 3 sts, work in both loops in hdc and come back to beginning, work hdc in the Front Loops that remain in the first 3 sts.

 

Rnd 8: work in hdc making 1 decrease in front sections and 2 dec in the back. That’s 4 dec.

 

 

Rnd 9: hdc evenly

 

Repeat rows 8-9 three more times.

 

Row 16-19: hdc evenly.

 

Row 20: hdc in 3, [hdc dec, hdc in next] 14 times, hdc in last.

 

Row 21: *hdc in 1, ch1, sk 1* rep to last, hdc in last.

 

(use up/down stitch)

 

 

 

Row 22-:work *sc in one, dc in next* around

 

Next row: work sc’s in dc’s and dc’s in sc’s around.

 

Work 11 rows of the pattern (row 33) and then join… DNBO

 

 

 

Work a row of sc around the full edge: around hood, and the left and right front edges. This row will give you a base for your ‘fur’ trim. After you work around the edges, sew the top seam together and tidy all ends.

Work a row of fake fur trim using 2 strands of yarn.

 

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2011

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

Edited February 22, 2012 by darski

[Peggy85225]

Just wonderful! Thank you so much.

[beckyb]

So cute!! Thank you for sharing!

[Monique39]

Very cute!

[crs5]

Waayy too cute!!!!!! Thanks for sharing the pattern.

 

Carol:hook

[dewbaby00]

Thank you so much for the patterns, I will have to try these sometime soon. My daughter has 3 or 4 of these dolls in all diff sizes.

[Katy_Ravensong]

Wow! I'm impressed. Thanks so much.

[unicorn37757]

very cute thanks for sharing:clap

[nadinette]

Thank you so much for sharing !

[brownidgirl37]

Hi. I’m a newbie and trying to make the romper. What does the V stand for? 
Also, on the tam, what does FP stand for?

Thank you 🙏 

[darski]

4 hours ago, brownidgirl37 said:

Hi. I’m a newbie and trying to make the romper. What does the V stand for? 
Also, on the tam, what does FP stand for?

Thank you 🙏 

I assume you are asking what does the V-stitch mean it is in the instructions.  it means that you work (dc, ch1, dc) in the same stitch.  it forms a V

the FP stands for Front Post stitches.  if you are not familiar with post stitches I would suggest you look for a video tutorial.  you work post stitches around the 'post' of a stitch instead of into the top loops