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Born on the 4th of July -14"baby... lotta images


darski
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Born on the 4th of July – LA Newborn -14”. :pinterest

 

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here is the body type for this doll - very realistic...

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WW yarn in Red, White and Navy blue

Bernat Baby Sparkle SW yarn.

 

4.5mm, 5.mm, 5.5mm and 6.5mm hooks

 

DNBO=do not break off.

 

Join all rounds unless otherwise noted

 

V-st = [dc, ch1, dc]

 

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His Hat… with Navy

 

Row 1: ch 4, 10 dc into 4th ch from hook. (11dc)

 

Row 2: *dc in dc, FPdc around same st*. repeat to end (11 dc, 11 FPdc).

 

Row 3: *2dc in dc, Fpdc around FPdc.* Rep to end. (22dc, 11FPdc)

 

Row 4: *dc in 2dc, Fpdc around FPdc* rep to end.

 

Rep row 4 twice then break off and tidy ends.

 

Row 7: att white WW yarn work sc in every st. Break off white… tidy ends and then attach red.

 

Row 8: work as row 4 but replace the FPdc with FPtr.

 

Row 9: you are going to edge the hat and create ties on this row… sc in 7, ch 31, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch back to hat , sc in 21, ch 31, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch back to hat , sc n 6. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

The Sunsuit…

 

With Red WW yarn and 5.5mm hook. Loosely fitting elastic waistband. (I used one that I had for our other girls)

 

Legs.. DNBO after 2nd leg

 

Ch 24 and join.

Row 1-4: dc evenly (24 dc)

 

Align the 2 legs and join with 6 sc… ch 1, work around to back join in dc, work a dc in the same st as the last sc join. At back Join, work [dc, tr, dc] into join, continue in dc. At this point I have 42 dc /1tr. If you are close – good enough.

 

Row T2: dc evenly around.

 

In the next row you will be making 4 dec. Put them anywhere you like. I put mine in the places where darts would normally occur but you could put them all in the back if you like.

 

Row T3: dc around working 4 dec as you wish.

 

Row T4: work in dc making 2 dec in the back.

 

Work a row of hdc over the elastic waistband. Break off and tidy ends.

 

Mark out 6 sts at centre back. Att navy yarn and work sc in the 6 sts, ch 1 and turn

 

Divide for straps…

 

Row 2: sc in 1st, hdc in next 2. Turn

 

Work rows of dc over the 3 sts until they can button in front. You should make the top first so that you fit the straps over it.

 

To finish: sc in 1, ch 2, sk 1, sc in last

 

Work the other 3 sts to mirror 1st strap.

 

The top…

 

In white baby sparkle SW yarn w/ 4.5mm hook

 

Ch 5 drawing each ch tightly, join in 1st ch. Button loop formed… now work normally

 

Ch 35…

 

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook, *dc in next, 2 dc in next* rep to end. (50 dc and ch loop)

 

Row 2: dc in 6, ch 1, dc in 13, ch 1, dc in 12, ch1, dc in 13, ch1, dc in 6.

Row 3: dc in 6, V-st in ch1 sp, dc in 13, V-st in ch1 sp, dc in 12, V-st in ch1 sp, dc in 13, V-st in ch1 sp, dc in 6.

 

Row 4: dc in 7, 2 dc in ch 1 sp, sk to next ch1 sp, 2dc in ch1 sp, dc in 14, 2 dc in ch1 sp, sk to next ch1 sp, 2dc in ch1 sp, dc in 7.

 

Row 5-7: dc in every dc.

 

Edge bottom by working [sc in 2. ch1]. Break off and tidy all ends. Sew on the button.

 

The Booties…

 

With Navy WW yarn and 5.5mm hook

 

Row 1: ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sc) join

 

Row 2: 2 sc in ea sc. (12 sc)

 

Row 3: *sc in 3, 2sc in next* rep to end. (15 sts)

 

Rows 4-5: sc in rounds evenly.

 

Rows 6-10: sc evenly as rows. (don’t join)

 

Row 11: sc and work 2 dec in sole area,

 

Row 12: sc and work 1 dec in sole area. When you get to end join to beginning st. to close. Work around top …sc in beg st, *ch 3, sk 1, sc in next* rep around. Break off leaving a goodly tail so you can sew up the back seam. Tidy all ends.

 

Make ties with a strand each of red and white. Tie into a bow but do not draw it tight around opening.

 

 

The Blanket… white WW yarn and 6.5mm hook

 

 

Work centre of blankie in an alternating dc/ch1 mesh…

 

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Foundation row…Ch 72 sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch to end. (71 sc)

 

It is best if you are familiar with a ch1 mesh pattern. I recommend the Megan Mills technique for the beginning dc - start about 1;47 into vid.

 

 

but use any method that you like

 

 

 

Row 1: work in dc/ch1 mesh. {dc in 1, *ch1, sk 1, dc in next* to end.

 

Row 2: dc in 1st, dc in next ch1 sp, *ch1, dc in ch1 sp* rep to end. End with dc in ch 1sp, dc in last.

 

These 2 rows form an alternating ch 1 mesh pattern. Continue with these two rows until your piece is square – allowing for a final row of sc to match lower edge. To see if it is square, fold a side edge along the bottom edge. This is the easiest way to measure it 

 

DNBO after finishing the sc row.

 

V-st trim row…

 

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Ch 8, dc in sc just made, work a V-st in the end of every dc row, in the corner work [dc, ch5, dc]. Along the sc rows, work [V-st, sk 2] along row – fudge if necessary to have it work out... when you have gone around the blankie join in 3rd ch of ch5. Break off and tidy ends.

 

Trim rows… Use red and blue WW yarn in any order that suits you and as many as you want to do

 

Att yarn in any V-st – not a corner.

 

In 1st V-st work … dc, ch3, slst in 3rd ch from hook [picot made] dc in same space. Please note that you are free to make a beginning dc any way you like but I do prefer …

 

 

 

In all other V-sts, work (2 dc, ch3, slst in 3rd ch from hook [picot made]dc in same space).

 

In each corner sp work [2 dc, 2 tr, ch3, slst in 3rd ch from hook [picot made] 2 tr, 2 dc].

 

To finish the row work 1 more dc in the 1st sp and join to beg dc.

 

Between the rows of colour trim, work a row of White V-sts between the picot groups. Look at the pics for guidance.

 

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The Girlie Stuff…

 

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Top…

w/ WW yarn and 5.mm hook Ch 41

 

Just a note… I used the 5.mm hook but it is a very close fit. It might be better to use the 5.5mm hook.

 

Row 1:hdc in 2nd ch from hook , hdc in 4, ch 3, sk 10, hdc in 10, ch3, sk 10, hdc in 5. (20 hdc,)

 

Row 2: hdc in every hdc and ch st. (26 hdc)

 

Row 3: *hdc in 1, ch1, sk1* rep to end… end w/ hdc in last 2. ch 1…

 

You are now going to work the edge and along the straps…

 

Work in sc along edge and strap but work a double dec where straps meet bodice.

 

Work hdc across front edge.

 

Work a button loop at top rt edge.

 

You are now back at the base of the bodice. Work a button loop here before… start ‘lace’ rows.

Lace rows

R1: work *sc, ch 3, sc in ch1 sp* end w/ sc in last

R2: work sc in sc/ ch 4.

R3: work sc in sc/ ch5 break off and tidy all ends. Add buttons

 

 

 

The Panties… use Red and White WW yarn and 5.5 mm hook with an elastic waistband.

 

Foundation row: work 40 sc over elastic waistband with white.

 

Row 1: work dc in every sc. Secure but DNBO yarn.

 

I attach my red yarn in a different location at the back to the right of the centre back sts so I don’t get that glaring join look. Just keep an eye on your centre back and centre front from the white rows and maintain the increases there.

 

Row 2: Att red yarn and work evenly in dc. Secure but DNBO red.

 

Row 3: with white yarn,.. 2 dc in 1st, dc in 18, 2 dc in next 2 dc, dc in 18, 2 dc in last dc. Secure white.

 

Row 4: with red… work in dc. Work increases in 2 CF and CB stitches. Secure red. Also work 4 decreases near the sides. 2 on ea side.

 

Row 5: with white, work in dc except for increases. Work 4 decreases wherever you like them. Work [dc/tr in 1, tr/dc in next] for centre increases. Break off white yarn.

 

Row 6: as you work in dc you will work your increases as usual but join w/ slst to corresponding stitches to form crotch. Make 6 dec on this row. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

The Bonnet…

 

With Navy WW yarn and 6.5mm hook

Row 1: Ch 4 and dc 11 into 4th ch from hook. Join. (12dc)

 

Row 2: 2dc in ea dc.

 

Row 3: flip crown good side down and work FPsc around. I worked one extra FPsc so it would not be such a tight row. (25, FPsc) Turn.

 

Row4: dc evenly around.

 

Rows 5-7: work in dc making 2 increases on each row. Stagger the locations over the 3 rows.(31 dc @ row 7)

 

Row 8: sc in 3, 2 sc in next hdc in 4, 2dc in next, dc in 13, 2dc in next, hdc in 4, 2 sc in next, sc in 3. join and break off navy.

 

Please note: I wanted a loose fit but I think I could have omitted the sc increases. However that would have affected my count on the red trim row.

 

Att white yarn and work an even row of sc. Turn.

 

Brim… In back loops only…*work 2dc in 2, dc in 1* rep to end. Break off white and tidy ends.

 

Att red and work *hdc in 3, spike hdc in next around. Fudge if you need to for appearance sake. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

Spike st instructions: http://crochetme.com/forums/t/28872.aspx

 

 

 

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2011

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
mis typed
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I'm sorry that I could not do my usual individual pics of each item but my back and hip just won't take the angles of incline anymore :wlol

 

oh yeah... Happy 4th to my American friends.

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where do i get the dolls

 

I bought these Berenguer (sp) babies at Walmart for about $17.oo

 

They should be even cheaper for you in the US.

 

And :ty all for the kind remarks.

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thanks darski will have to look for them i dont remember seeing that brand there

 

It is interesting in that my boxes say they are Berenguer dolls but when I did a search on Walmart.com it says they are from JC Toys and they are anatomically correct. Mine aren't... I just went by how each looked. Interesting bit of trade name bingo I guess.

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