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darski

Arabella - 18" Doll Outfit

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Arabella18” doll :pinterest

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Need 3 colours of WW yarn w/ 5.mm hook and a very small amount of SW yarn and 4.mm hook

 

5 buttons and yarn needles for stitching.

 

Poke Bonnet…

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Ww yarn and 5.mm hook

 

Ch 2…

Row 1: 10 hdc in 2nd ch from hook

 

Row 2: 2 hdc in ea hdc. (20 hdc)

 

Row 3: * 2hdc in 1, dc in next* rep to end.(30 hdc)

 

Row 4: * hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next* rep to end. (40 hdc)

 

Row 5: flip crown good side down and work FPsc in ea hdc, ch 1 and turn.

 

Row 6-7: sc in 10, hdc in 20, sc in 10.(40)

 

Row 8-9: hdc evenly.

 

Row 10: inc by 4 hdc evenly spaced around.(44hdc)

 

Row 11-12: sc in 10, hdc in24, sc in 10.

 

Row 13: *2 FPsc in 1, FPsc in next* rep to end. Ch 1, turn.

 

Row 14: sc in 12, hdc in 42, sc in 12.

 

Row 15: sc in 10, hdc in 46, sc in 10.

 

Row 16: sc in 8, hdc in 50, sc in 8.

 

Row 17: sc in 6, hdc in 54, sc in 6.

 

Row 18: reverse single crochet around. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

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Band… ch 44 and join.

 

Row 1: sc in ea ch.

Row 2: *sc in 1, FPsc around next* rep to end. Break off and tidy ends. St to base of crown using beg and end tails to sew in ea direction. It should st in place and trims will secure other parts. Note… You need to be careful to keep your stitches on the surface only so they do not mess up your brim when worn.

 

Ties w/ cockade trim…

 

Ch 6 leaving a goodly tail for sewing

 

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across.

 

Row 2: sc dec, sc in next, sc dec.

 

Row 3: sc in ea sc.

 

Row 4: hdc in ea.

 

Row 5 : decrease to 1 sc, ch 35, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook. Break off an tidy ends.

 

When you have both ties made line them up on either side of hat and stitch in place.

 

 

Spencer jacket…

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This begins by creating a shrug from centre back out to both sleeves and then working the coat onto this base. The original chain is your Centre Back ‘seam’. J It is important to remember to keep turning the work even when working in the round to maintain the pattern row effect.

 

The two beginning tails will be used to make a bow at CB bottom when completed so keep them to the outside when working around the opening.

 

First side …

 

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w/ WW yarn and 5.5mm hook Chain 13

 

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across, (12 hdc)

 

Row 2: hdc evenly.

 

Row 3-5: work in hdc working an increase in 2nd and 2nd to last st. (14hdc)(16) (18hdc)

 

Row 6-8:hdc evenly. at the end of row 8 ch 5 and join to other edge to close in the sleeve.

 

Row 9-10: hdc evenly (23 hdc)

 

Row 11-16: dec by 1 hdc. (17 hdc at row 16)

 

Rows 17 - 19: sc evenly. Break off green and tidy ends. Att purple yarn so that it will be on top of the wrist as worn. Leave a goodly tail so that you can tie a little bow. With my arthritis I can’t work with tiny bits of thread anymore. That’s why God invented scissors. J

 

Row 20: work around in sc then break off leaving another goodly tail. Att white yarn as with the purple .

 

Row 21: work as row 20 in white.

 

Tie the tiny bows with the tails and trim ends. I always use a dab of clear nail polish to secure little bows and things.

 

Remaining side …

 

Return to original chain sts and work as for first side. Be sure to put the starting tail in the same place as first side.

 

Working the jacket …

 

 

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Att yarn at Centre Back top edge. (not the side with the two tails

 

 

First 2 rows

Sc along neck and back portions then switch to hdc along the front edges. You should work a hdc dec into each ‘corner’ where the front begins and ends on the first row.

 

Row 3: dc in 4, 2 dc in next 2, dc in 2, 2 dc in next 2, hdc in 11, sc in 13, hdc in 11, 2 dc in next 2, dc in 2, 2 dc in next 2, dc in 2. join. Note… this is how mine worked out but take the general idea and adapt to your number of stitches. Break off and tidy ends.

 

The fronts…

Pick up the jacket by the left side as worn. Att yarn in the last dc of the collar. Work hdc in 10 sts. Work 4 more rows on these 10 sts. Break off.

 

Work these same 10 sts on the right front side for 5 rows then work a row with button loops

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dress…

 

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Ww yarn in 2 colours and 5.mm hook… ch 38

 

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across. (37 hdc)

 

Rows 2-3:hdc in 11, 2 hdc in next, hdc to 13th, st from end 2 hdc in next, hdc to end. (41 sts at row 3)

 

Row 4: hdc in 8, ch 12, sk 3, hdc in 19, ch 12, sk 3, hdc in 8.

 

Row 5: hdc in every ch and hdc.

 

Row 6: *hdc in 3, hdc dec next* to end.

 

Row 7: hdc in 2, * 2 hdc in next, hdc in 4* rep to end – however it works out. Break off and tidy ends.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Row S1: Return to starting chain to work skirt . Att white yarn and work across w/ hdc in ea ch.(37)

 

Row S2: hdc in 5. 2 hdc in next, hdc in 7, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 4, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 7, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 5. (42)

 

Row S3: work hdc in every hdc and work an extra hdc between any increase sts. (47)

 

Row S4: work in hdc working an increase in ea inc st from row S3. (52)

 

Row S5: hdc evenly and join. (continue to turn for ea row to maintain the effect)

 

Rows S6-13: hdc evenly.

 

Row S14: work 1 increase on each front and back side. (56 hdc), secure but DNBO white yarn. Att green

 

Row S15: sc evenly around. Secure but DNBO green.

 

Row S16: *DC in 6, 3 dc in next* rep to end. Break off white. Pick up green.

 

Row 17: sc in every dc.

 

Rows 18-19 – dc evenly. Break off green and att white.

 

Row 20: sc evenly

 

Row 21: dc evenly

 

Row 22: dc in 1 *hdc dec, [2dc,ch1, 2dc] in next, hdc dec, dc in 2* rep to end, end w/ [] and join to 1st dc.

 

Neck trim row/s :

 

Row 1: att white yarn at neck edge and work [sc in 4, sc dec] across row.

 

Row 2:work [sc in 1, ch1, sk 1] across edge. Break off white.

 

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Att green yarn in 1st skipped st and ch 60. break off yarn leaving a goodly tail for joining at end. Drop from hook for a sec and weave the green ch strand around the ch 3 loops and secure at other end with sl st in 2nd last st.

 

Back edge…

 

Att yarn at base of right edge (inside) and sc along edge. Turn.

 

 

Work back down the rt edge working in button loops as you go. Continue up left side edge. Break off and tidy all ends.-

 

 

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2011

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
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You amaze me! I don't know how you come up with all of these lovely designs! :cheer

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darski,

 

Your patterns are fabulous!!! I have a Granddaughter that has an American Girl doll and we often get her things for it. I made 4-point ponchos a couple of years ago for her and her doll.

 

I want to make my Granddaughter something else for her AG doll, but can't decide which of your patterns to start with. Mentally I'm hooked on a cheerleading outfit but I know I'll have to get used to making some of the outfits before attempting a design like that. Yes, I want the pleated skirt. I just got her the sneakers when she was here over Christmas.

 

Thanks again for all the patterns you have shared with us.

 

CarolynT

Finally Flying Free

http://community.webshots.com/user/cbthornnc

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Thank you all for your kind words. I love this look and want to do more designs within this change from Regency styles... Love the history of fashion. :manyheart

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You amaze me. How do you keep coming up with such great outfits?:hook

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Darski, thanks for sharing! I love the outfit.

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Hi! I really like your patterns they are really easy.  I have one that I believe is your's that I am working on right now, but I have a question.  That pattern name is "Harriet". I don't understand when you write e-dc , Scarf pattern,  "tr in 3 chs, e-dc? in 4 dc in 6 hdc in 32 dc in 6 e-dc in 4 tr in 4 break off and tidy ends." Also there are no comas after e-dc, so I'm just not sure about this row.         

One more question; what does "double hdc dec over 2hdc and 1 ch st,"  This is Row 9.  I have crocheted for most of my life, but never have seen a stitch like this.  Please if you could reply I would appreciate it.

Dixie

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1 hour ago, dlbert said:

Hi! I really like your patterns they are really easy.  I have one that I believe is your's that I am working on right now, but I have a question.  That pattern name is "Harriet". I don't understand when you write e-dc , Scarf pattern,  "tr in 3 chs, e-dc? in 4 dc in 6 hdc in 32 dc in 6 e-dc in 4 tr in 4 break off and tidy ends." Also there are no comas after e-dc, so I'm just not sure about this row.         

One more question; what does "double hdc dec over 2hdc and 1 ch st,"  This is Row 9.  I have crocheted for most of my life, but never have seen a stitch like this.  Please if you could reply I would appreciate it.

Dixie

in the PDF each of the sets of sts are shown on a new line.  e-dc is an extended dc.  start your dc but just pull thru only 1 loop and then continue to make your usual dc.

e-dc

 

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the double decrease is worked over 3 sts - 2 hdc then 1 ch and later 1 ch and 2 hdc.

 

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