How to crochet a flat circle the spiral way

[joules]

so far when i crochet a flat circle, i start with a ring, chain 3 then 11 dc in ring. then chain 3 and 2dc in each dc...... this leaves a seam.

 

ive been told in the past to work in a spiral but an nervous about this. at the moment i can work susequent rounds by eye with no counting. the increases look like V so on the next round i put the next V in the right hand side of the V below it. doe that make sense?

 

does anyone know of a good photo tutorial on spirals?

 

and will my method of eyballing increase points still work?

 

im going to be making a cardigan for my mum for xmas and its based on a circle but i dont want the seams to show

 

thanks

[nicolep]

For me, placing a stitch marker in the first stitch in a continuous round is the best way to keep track of where I am.

 

Here's a good tutorial for working in spirals -

 

http://www.crochetcabana.com/tutorials/spiral.htm

[Granny Square]

Yup. Stitch markers. And I count, not eyeball. If the increases are every 4th stitch: one, two, three, in-crease, a double cadence on the 4th stitch to 'count' 2 stitches into that stitch.

 

But, if you mark the first stitch, no reason you can't eyeball it. You don't need to buy them, a safety pin, bobby pin, even paper clip will work.

[darski]

Just for the sake of another point of view, you could take a look at these instructions for getting your joinings correct.

 

http://www.hook-and-hype.de/?lp_lang_pref=en&page_id=100

 

That website set my crochet efforts ahead by light years and I had been crocheting for a lot of decades before I found it.

[acraftylady]

Here are some sites for a seamless join. Mary

 

http://sarahlondon.wordpress.com/2009/08/10/seamless-symmetrical/

 

http://www.crochetmagazine.com/newsletters.php?mode=issue&issue_id=140

[joules]

Here are some sites for a seamless join. Mary

 

http://sarahlondon.wordpress.com/2009/08/10/seamless-symmetrical/

 

http://www.crochetmagazine.com/newsletters.php?mode=issue&issue_id=140

 

thanks for those links but you have to cut the yarn every round and im using the same yarn throughout have saved them though ty

[jennyh]

thanks for those links but you have to cut the yarn every round and im using the same yarn throughout have saved them though ty

 

i recently visited the sarah london link as well and thoroughly employ her seamless join method where applicable, but I was also wondering the same thing about a seamless join if you're not switching colors...any takers?

[joules]

i recently visited the sarah london link as well and thoroughly employ her seamless join method where applicable, but I was also wondering the same thing about a seamless join if you're not switching colors...any takers?

 

have you heard of this link? she has a few videos showing it in different ways/places

 

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=TXCr1cket#p/a/u/3/I-eQdMYktys

[TheKnottyMale]

Joules,

From what you are describing, I think that what you are wanting to do is to tapestry crochet something. Tapestry crochet is different from ordinary crochet. The finished piece has a different feel and tension. You work with 2 (or more) strands at the same time - never cutting any of the unused colors. The smaller the hook you use, the more stiff the finished piece will be.

I recently made a round tapestry crocheted throw and posted pictures. It's the same thing you are trying to achieve - one large cirle. Mine was made entirely in single crochet, but I don't see any reason why you couldn't do double crochet if you wanted.

Also, when I make an increase, it happens of the LEFT side of my created V - not the right side like you mentioned. I use a lever backed earring as my stitch marker, but just about anything will work. I would not suggest using a strand of yarn though. Whenever I've done that, it has made the first stitch of each round look a bit larger than all of the other stitches. Use something small, like a bobby pin or a safety pin if you don't have an old lever backed earring laying around in your jewelry box.

Leaving a long tail (about 8 inches), I make my magic ring with 6 stitches to start out. I pull the ring closed, and while carrying the tail, I crochet 2 stitches into each of the 6 stitches. Now I have a total of 12 stitches.

Round 2: 2 stitches into each of the next 12 stitches (now I have 24).

Round 3: Crochet 1 stitch into the first stitch and increase (2 stitches) into the next stitch. Repeat this for the entire round. When you finish, you will have 36 stitches.

Now I work an entire round without any increases (36)

Increase in every 3rd stitch (48)

Work a round with no increases (48)

Increase in every 4th stitch (60)

Increase in every 5th stitch (72)

Work a round with no increases (72)

Increase in every 6th stitch (84)

Increase in every 7th stitch (96)

Increase in every 8th stitch (108)

Work a round with no increases (108)

For the rest of your circle: Work 2 rounds of increases, then one round without any increases.

Carrying 2 ore more colors does take a bit of practice. The hardest part is keeping the unused color at a tension that is just right. If the unused color is carried to loosely, it will poke though. If you carry it too tightly, your piece will pucker. It's not hard to do... just takes some practice.

DO NOT slip stitch any of your stitches. If you do this, it will cause the unused color to show on the reverse side.

Hope this helps you out

Bob

[joules]

Yup. Stitch markers. And I count, not eyeball. If the increases are every 4th stitch: one, two, three, in-crease, a double cadence on the 4th stitch to 'count' 2 stitches into that stitch.

 

But, if you mark the first stitch, no reason you can't eyeball it. You don't need to buy them, a safety pin, bobby pin, even paper clip will work.

 

i do that as well as look i think makes me feel a bit daft but whatever works i suppose

[joules]

Joules,

From what you are describing, I think that what you are wanting to do is to tapestry crochet something. Tapestry crochet is different from ordinary crochet. The finished piece has a different feel and tension. You work with 2 (or more) strands at the same time - never cutting any of the unused colors. The smaller the hook you use, the more stiff the finished piece will be.

I recently made a round tapestry crocheted throw and posted pictures. It's the same thing you are trying to achieve - one large cirle. Mine was made entirely in single crochet, but I don't see any reason why you couldn't do double crochet if you wanted.

Also, when I make an increase, it happens of the LEFT side of my created V - not the right side like you mentioned. I use a lever backed earring as my stitch marker, but just about anything will work. I would not suggest using a strand of yarn though. Whenever I've done that, it has made the first stitch of each round look a bit larger than all of the other stitches. Use something small, like a bobby pin or a safety pin if you don't have an old lever backed earring laying around in your jewelry box.

Leaving a long tail (about 8 inches), I make my magic ring with 6 stitches to start out. I pull the ring closed, and while carrying the tail, I crochet 2 stitches into each of the 6 stitches. Now I have a total of 12 stitches.

Round 2: 2 stitches into each of the next 12 stitches (now I have 24).

Round 3: Crochet 1 stitch into the first stitch and increase (2 stitches) into the next stitch. Repeat this for the entire round. When you finish, you will have 36 stitches.

Now I work an entire round without any increases (36)

Increase in every 3rd stitch (48)

Work a round with no increases (48)

Increase in every 4th stitch (60)

Increase in every 5th stitch (72)

Work a round with no increases (72)

Increase in every 6th stitch (84)

Increase in every 7th stitch (96)

Increase in every 8th stitch (108)

Work a round with no increases (108)

For the rest of your circle: Work 2 rounds of increases, then one round without any increases.

Carrying 2 ore more colors does take a bit of practice. The hardest part is keeping the unused color at a tension that is just right. If the unused color is carried to loosely, it will poke though. If you carry it too tightly, your piece will pucker. It's not hard to do... just takes some practice.

DO NOT slip stitch any of your stitches. If you do this, it will cause the unused color to show on the reverse side.

Hope this helps you out

Bob

 

thats a great explanation but i was not trying to ask about tapestry crochet....however it is on my list of things i want to try so i have saved your instructions as they cover a lot of important points, thank you very much

 

what im try in to do is crochet a circle, flat, in the same yarn throughout but not showing the seam like line that occurs where the chain 3 is.... does that make sense. i recall being told that working in a spiral will do this for me but have never tried it.

 

i could use the you tube i linked earlier but i cant quite get it right

 

i think i just need to sample the various methods to see which one works for me ive never tried a spiral so was after a good tutorial as i prefer pictures and text or videos

 

im sure its been asked about on the forums plenty of times so i will go try a search for other methods too

[TheKnottyMale]

Is this what you want to make??

[joules]

Is this what you want to make??

 

yes! thats it

 

theres a knitting pattern on rav called leftovers for dinner. im taking the concept and crocheting it as DC . i made a small one for my daughter 2 yr old, and it worked but the seam shouts at me every time i look saying "hello! im here!" lol... thats why i want it for

[TheKnottyMale]

Here's what I did:

 

I started out just as you did (11dc and a ch 2 made within a ch3 circle.)

 

To begin the next round, I put ONE double crochet into the FIRST chain of the chain 2 that was made at the beginning of the previous round. Then I put ONE double crochet into the last stitch of the ch2 that was made at the beginning of the previous round. The double crochet that was put into the first chain stitch is the first stitch of your new round - be sure to mark it so you don't get lost.

 

Now work 2 double crochets into each of the next 11 double crochets. You should have 24 stitches when you finish this round. The reason for putting one double crochet into each of the chain 2 stitches is to avoid having a hole where the round is connected.

 

On the next round I worked 1 DC, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat this sequence for the entire round. You should have 36 stitches at the end of the round.

 

Next round: 2 DC's into each of the next 2 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

Next Round: 3 DC's into each of the next 3 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

Next Round: 4 DC's into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

 

This is as far as I went. All of the rounds layed nice and flat. There were a couple of times that I tried working a round with no increases, but each time I tried, it caused the piece to curl. I would assume that there would be no need for working any rounds without increases.

 

Hope this helps you out

[joules]

Here's what I did:

 

I started out just as you did (11dc and a ch 2 made within a ch3 circle.)

 

To begin the next round, I put ONE double crochet into the FIRST chain of the chain 2 that was made at the beginning of the previous round. Then I put ONE double crochet into the last stitch of the ch2 that was made at the beginning of the previous round. The double crochet that was put into the first chain stitch is the first stitch of your new round - be sure to mark it so you don't get lost.

 

Now work 2 double crochets into each of the next 11 double crochets. You should have 24 stitches when you finish this round. The reason for putting one double crochet into each of the chain 2 stitches is to avoid having a hole where the round is connected.

 

On the next round I worked 1 DC, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat this sequence for the entire round. You should have 36 stitches at the end of the round.

 

Next round: 2 DC's into each of the next 2 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

Next Round: 3 DC's into each of the next 3 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

Next Round: 4 DC's into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 DC's into the next stitch. Repeat around.

 

 

This is as far as I went. All of the rounds layed nice and flat. There were a couple of times that I tried working a round with no increases, but each time I tried, it caused the piece to curl. I would assume that there would be no need for working any rounds without increases.

 

Hope this helps you out

 

cool ty

[jennyh]

cool ty

 

cool indeed! I think I'll stash that "put a stitch into each ch" trick in my memory bank for when i need it!