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I'm in the mood for blue -18" doll- PDF ADDED


darski
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I’m in the mood for blue – 18” doll :pinterest

 

 

PDF added here:mood.pdf

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I am going to include the link to this song. You can hum it all the time you work on these patterns J just like I did

I’m in the mood for blue... sort of :wlol






This is the link to all the pics for this set.
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/lenedar/Blue/

Hat…

5.mm hook, WW navy yarn




Row 1: ch 3 9 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. (10 hdc)

Row 2: 2 hdc in every hdc.

Row 3: *2 hdc in 1, hdc in next* rep around. (30 hdc)

Row 4: Work in Back Loops Only. Hdc in every hdc around. (30 hdc)

Row 5: increase by 4 hdc evenly spaced around. (34 hdc)

Row 6: increase by 4 hdc evenly spaced around and staggered with last row.. (38 hdc)

Row 7: sc in 8, hdc in 22, sc in 8.

Row 8: sc in 6, hdc in 26, sc in 6.

Row 9: sc in 4, hdc in 30, sc in 4.

Row 10: FPhdc in 4, * 2FPhdc in 1, 1 FPhdc in next* over next 30 sts. FPhdc in last 4.(49 FPhdc)

Row 11: hdc evenly around. (49 hdc)

Row 12:sc in 3, *hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next * rep. to last 3, sc in 3. (6sc, 54 hdc)

Break off and tidy all ends.

The coat…

WW yarn and 5.5 mm hook Ch 51,

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. (50 hdc)
Row 2: hdc in 10, 2hdc in next, hdc in9, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 8, 2hdc in next, hdc in 9, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 10.

Row 3-4: Work in hdc with 4 increases stacked on previous increases.

Row 5: work as previous row up to last 2 sts. Ch 1, sk 1 hdc in lat

Row 6-9 : work evenly in hdc.

Row 10: repeat row 5

Rows 11-20: work evenly in hdc. Break off.


Return to waist line to continue…
Divide you stitches into fronts and backs. I have 13 sts for each front and 24 sts for the back. To get these numbers I folded the coat as if it were on the doll and closed. I put markers in the side “seams” and then checked that they were ever. (imagine that – it was even J )

Switch to 5mm hook

Left front: work in hdc for 6 rows working one dec on the sleeve side and four decs on the lapel side.
Row 7: sc in 4, hdc in 5 break off and leave a tail for sewing shoulders together.

Right front: work as for left front but include one button hole on the 2nd row.

Back: work 6 rows in hdc working one dec at both sleeve sides.
Row 7: hdc in 5, sc to last 5, hdc in 5. break off
Sew shoulders

Sleeves: work in hdc around armhole . My personal preference is to work sc at the base of the armhole to bring the sleeves into the usual position. Do what works for you in that though.

COLLAR instructions :blush

for the collar, I attached white yarn 3 sts in from the edge and worked to3 sts from other edge. work sc in 1st, 2sc in each to last, 1 sc in last. 2nd row is sc in sc, sk 1, [dc, ch2, dc] in next to last. sc in last

'lapels' I tacked the 'lapels' down with matching yarn - just one st in the 'corner'. Tidy all ends.


Pleated Skirt

Row 1: 50 sc around waistband. Join.

Row 2: dc evenly around (50 dc)

Row 3-9 : dc in 3, *FPdc in next, dc in 4* rep to rnd, dc in last sc.

Break off and tidy all ends.

White Blouse…

With 5.mm hook and light WW yarn Ch21

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across. (20 hdc)

Row 2:sc in ea hdc.

Row 3: work 5 tight chs to make button loop.. hdc in first st, *2FPhdc in next, 1FPhdc in next* repeat to last st. hdc in last st.

Row 4: sc evenly across (30 sc)

Row 5: hdc in 4, ch 2, hdc in 7, ch 2, hdc in 8, ch 2, hdc in 7, ch2, hdc in 4.

Row 6: hdc in 4, [2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc} in ch 2 sp, hdc in 7, [2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc} in ch 2 sp, hdc in 8, [2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc} in ch 2 sp, hdc in 7, [2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc} in ch 2 sp, hdc in 4..


Row 7: hdc in 6, [ hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 11, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 12, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 11, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 6.

Row 8: hdc in 7, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, sc in next hdc, [ch 3, sk 1, sc in next]6 times, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 14, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, sc in next hdc, [ch 3, sk 1, ch 1, sc in next]6 times, [hdc, ch 1, hdc} in ch 1 sp, hdc in 7.

Row 9: hdc in 8, hdc in ch 1 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch 3 sp,] 6 times, ch 4, hdc in ch 1 sp, hdc in bodice front sts, hdc in ch 1 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch 3 sp,] 6 times, ch 4, hdc in ch 1 sp, hdc in 8

Row 10: hdc in 9, ch 2, sk to bodice front sts and hdc across, skip to bodice back sts, hdc to end, ch 4 tightly to form button loop.

Row 11: hdc in every hdc and ch st.(I ended up with 39 sts. Close is good)

Row 12: dc evenly across.

Row 13: dc in 2, * 3dc in next, dc in 3,* repeat to end.

Row 14: work in dc making a 3dc group in the centre dc of previous 3dc groups and work 1 decrease between the bumps.

Break off yarn and tidy all ends.

The pink top uses this pattern but is made shorter and ends with a ch 3mesh edging.


Bermuda Shorts…

With light blue and 5.mm hook ch 20

1st leg…
Row 1: dc in every ch. (20 dc)

Row 2-3: dc in 6, FPdc in next, dc to end. (19 dc, 1FPdc) Break off and tidy all ends

2nd leg

Row 1: dc in every ch. (20 dc)

Row 2-3: dc in 13, FPdc in next, dc to end. (19 dc, 1FPdc) Do not break off.

T Row 1: Align the two legs with the flaps to the outside and join with 5 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join. Maintain your “creases” as you work the torso stitches

Go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc,2dc, 1dc, 2dc] in the five stitches, work (dc, tr, dc) into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T5: work evenly in dc maintaining the FPdcs..

Row T6: work evenly in dc only.

Row T7: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

Summer hat…

With WW yarn and 5.5mm hook ch 4
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook *ch 1, dc in same ch* 7 times. Join in 3rd ch of 4. ( 8dc, 8 ch 1 sp)

Row 2: work dc/ch 1 in every dc and ch 1 space. (16 dc, 16 ch 1 sp)

Row 3: Work sc in every st in Back Loops Only(32 sc)

Row 4: ch 4, *sk 1. dc in next, ch 1, sk 1, 2dc in next, ch 1* repeat to end and work one more dc in beginning st.

Row 5-7: ch 4, *FPdc around next dc, ch 1, dc in next 2 dc, ch 1* rep to end, join to 3rd ch of 4.

Row 8: work 2 dc in every regular dc and 3 dc in each post dc.

Note: when making up another hat to check the pattern I added an extra row in the rows 5-7 section. My Our Generation doll needed that extra row for a better fit. Just sayin J



Stonewashed blue jeans (also in black)

Legs – make 2 and do not break off after 2nd leg. All rounds are joined

Ch 16 and join to form ring…

Row 1: dc evenly around
Row 2: 2dc in 1st, dc to end,
Row 3: dc evenly
Row 4: dc to last, 2 dc in last.
Row 5: dc evenly.
Repeat rows 2 – 5 to row 10. (21 dc @ R10)

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the five stitches, work 3 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T5: work evenly in dc.(44dc)

Row T6: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back and front (4 decreases).

Row T7: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.



Bulky sweater
6mm hook and a heavier WW yarn. Ch 19

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. (18 hdc)

Row 2: sc in ea st across

Row 3: sc in 1s st, 2 FPsc in ea st to last, sc in last st. (35 sc)

Row 4: [sc in 3, 2 sc in next] to end. Sc in last sc. (42 sc)

Row 5: hdc in 5, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 7, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 10, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 7, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 5.

Row 6: hdc in 6, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 9 , 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 12, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 9, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 6.

Row 7: hdc in 2, FPtr in st 2 rows below, hdc in next, FPtr in st 2 rows below(next to last post st) hdc in 2, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 11, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 2, [FPtr in st 2 rows below, hdc in next] 7 times, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 11, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 2 FPtr in st 2 rows below, hdc in nxt, FPtr in st (nxt to last post st) hdc in 2.

Row 8: hdc in 9, sk 14 sts, hdc in 22, sk 14, hdc in 9.

Row 9: work across the row putting hdc in hdc and FPtr around FPtr.

Row 10: hdc up to first FPtr in front. Work [bPdc around post tr, BPdc around next hdc] over the 7 post tr sts. Hdc to end

Row 11: hdc in 2, FPtr on FPtr, hdc in next, FPtr on FPtr, hdc in 9, FPdc on FPdc, hdc to 7th FPdc, FPdc on that FPdc, hdc in 8, FPtr on FPtr, hdc in next, FPtr on FPtr, hdc in 2.

Row 12: dc evenly across.

Row 13: work ribbing by making {dc in one, FPdc on next} across the row.

Trim and button holes…work along the bottom in [sc, ch3] then work up the right back edge working 3 button holes as you go. Break off and tidy all ends.

Sleeves: work around sleeve openings in rows of hdc. You can work in some Post stitches if you want. J

Shell in slate blue

with WW yarn and 5mm hook ch 18

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across.

Row 2: hdc in 1st, 2hdc in ea to last st, hdc in last. (34 hdc)

Row 3: hdc in 5, ch 1, hdc in 7, ch 1, hdc in 10, ch 1, hdc in 7, ch 1, hdc in 5.

Row 4: hdc in 5, V-st (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch 1 sp, hdc in 7, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 10, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 7, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 5.

Row 5: hdc in 6, V-st in ch 1 sp, hdc in 9, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 12, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 9, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 5.

Row 6: hdc in 7, V-st in ch 1 sp, hdc in 11, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 14, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 11, V-st in ch sp, hdc in 7. (40 hdc, 4 V-st)

Row 7: hdc up to and into ch 1 sp, ch 2, sk to next ch 1 sp, hdc up to and into next ch 1 sp, ch 2, sk to next ch 1 sp, hdc to end. (36 hdc)

Row 8: hdc in ea stitch. (40 hdc)

Row 9: dc in 2, [2dc in next, dc in 3] to end

Row 10: dc evenly across

Row 11: dc in 15, dc dec, dc/tr in next, tr/dc in next, dc dec, dc to end.

Edging and trim…

Sc along left back edge, work sc/ch 3 along neck edge, sc along right back edge adding button loops if you wish, sc along bottom edge with 2 sc in ea tr.

Pretty Top…
4.5mm hook, lighter ww yarn

ch 28

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *sc in next, 2 sc in next* to end. ( 41 sc)

Row 2: *dc in 3, 2 dc in next* rep to end.(51 dc)

Row 3: 2 sc in one, sc in 3,*2sc in next, sc in 4* rep to end. (62 sc)

Row 4:dc in 7, 2dc in next 2, dc in 13, 2dc in next 2, dc in 14, 2dc in next 2, dc in 13, 2dc in next 2, dc in 7

Row 5: sc in 9, ch 2, sk 17, sc in 18, ch 2, sk 17, sc in 9.

Row 6: dc in every st across. *40 dc)

Row 7: sc in every st across.

Row 8: dc evenly across.

Row 9: sc in 2, *ch 1, sc in 4* rep to end

Trim rows etc.…
Sc along right back edge working in 3 button loops as you go.

Collar: work sc/ch3 in every stitch along the neck edge
Work sc/ch4 in every ch 3 loop.

Work [sc, ch 3, sc] in every ch 4 loop

Sc down left back edge.

Across bottom work sc in every sc and {dc, ch2, dc] in every ch 1 space. Break off and tidy all ends.

Pretty skirt…

With ww yarn and 5mm hook work 45 sc around elastic waistband…

Row 1-3: dc evenly around (45 dc)

Row 4: *dc in 2, 2dc in next* to end. (60 dc)

Row 5: work dc in dc but work an increase with dc between 2dc groups of row 4.(75 dc)

Row 6: * ch 3, sk 1, sc in next* to end . now ch 3 and work another row of ch 3 mesh in the skipped sts under the previous set. Work to end and ch 4.

Row 7: work ch 4 mesh on the under ch 3 mesh of row 6.

Row 8: work ch 5 mesh around.

Row 9: ch 1, *2sc in next loop, ch 2* end w/ ch 1 slst into beg sc.

Row 10: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, *dc in the 2sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp* rep to last ch 1 sp, dc in ch 1 sp. Join. (142 dc)

Row 11: sc in joining st, *ch 4, sk 1, sc in next* rep around. Break off and tidy all ends.

Trim rows. I used a finer WW white yarn and a 4.5mm hook

Go back to the remaining ch 3 mesh from row 6. work a row of ch 4 mesh and then a row of ch 5 mesh. I would urge you to work the last set as [ch 1, dc into beg sc] it just works better for me.

Picot row… work [ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in next loop] around. Break off and tidy ends.

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2009

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.
Edited by darski
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:clap You always have such great patterns! :hook

I have a 4 year old niece who enjoys playing with dolls. I keep some dolls here at my house for when she stops in. I have to find some time to make these outfits for her. (Of course I will have to make 2 sets because she will want to take a set home.)

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Thank you all. I have to admit I am going to miss my little miss in her pleated skirt. It was the start of the extra clothing after the hat and coat. It's been a while with her looking so cute. :dreaming

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Your pattern was on Crochet Pattern Central's 'New Patterns Page' yesterday. I was so pleased to see you had another doll pattern. I don't know when I'll have a little girl to make them for, but I'm saving the patterns. Thanks!

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Darci,

 

What wonderful patterns. I am so impressed by your skill in pattern writing, and this is the first place I look for patterns when my niece requests a new doll outfit :)

 

I am planning to make a few of these pieces for her birthday, so I copied and pasted your patterns into a Word document, with pictures of each piece. I then converted it to a PDF, and I bet I'm not the only one who would like to have the patterns in this format. Would you like me to email it to you? My email is andrea.c.leonard (at) gmail.com. I definitely don't want to distribute it without your consent.

 

I'm also planning to put my project on Ravelry when I'm finished with it... with your consent, I will make a comment that I have the patterns available in PDF format if other people want them. I was sure to put a copyright message at the bottom of each page with the URL source of these patterns and a reminder not to sell the patterns.

 

Let me know what you think. If you're uncomfortable with this at all, I will just print it for myself and pretend it never happened :)

 

Andrea:cheer

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  • 1 month later...
Hi Darci,

 

What wonderful patterns. I am so impressed by your skill in pattern writing, and this is the first place I look for patterns when my niece requests a new doll outfit :)

 

I am planning to make a few of these pieces for her birthday, so I copied and pasted your patterns into a Word document, with pictures of each piece. I then converted it to a PDF, and I bet I'm not the only one who would like to have the patterns in this format. Would you like me to email it to you? My email is andrea.c.leonard (at) gmail.com. I definitely don't want to distribute it without your consent.

 

I'm also planning to put my project on Ravelry when I'm finished with it... with your consent, I will make a comment that I have the patterns available in PDF format if other people want them. I was sure to put a copyright message at the bottom of each page with the URL source of these patterns and a reminder not to sell the patterns.

 

Let me know what you think. If you're uncomfortable with this at all, I will just print it for myself and pretend it never happened :)

 

Andrea:cheer

 

My patterns are now available in a PDF at my yahoo group: duds for doras. since my member has been so kind as to do all this work I would prefer that others not do it at random. thank you for your thoughts but I'm afraid I have to say no at this point.

:heart

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The "pretty top" and the skirt made an adorable ensemble in purple and white for my DD's friend's birthday gift. Now to get a picture (eventually). I used Bernat Baby Boucle, and it came out beautifully.

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  • 4 months later...

I am so excited about your patterns. I am trying out the White blouse pattern from your I'm in the mood for blue post in Oct of 09. I want to check a few things first like on Row 3 it says 2FPhdc (what does FP mean?) and then on row 8 it has a part that says [ch 3, sk 1, ch1, sc in next] six times. what does sk mean? and if is means skip do I join somewhere before I ch 1 and then sc in next sc? I am a bit lost on this part. Please help if you can I would really like to finish this top it is looking really cute and I can't wait to finish it and give it to my daughter. Love your patterns and I am so excited about finding this site. I love to crochet and have 3 daughter and they are at the perfect age for dolls. Thanks for your help.

 

Cheralyn (greenmnm5)

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I am so excited about your patterns. I am trying out the White blouse pattern from your I'm in the mood for blue post in Oct of 09. I want to check a few things first like on Row 3 it says 2FPhdc (what does FP mean?) and then on row 8 it has a part that says [ch 3, sk 1, ch1, sc in next] six times. what does sk mean? and if is means skip do I join somewhere before I ch 1 and then sc in next sc? I am a bit lost on this part. Please help if you can I would really like to finish this top it is looking really cute and I can't wait to finish it and give it to my daughter. Love your patterns and I am so excited about finding this site. I love to crochet and have 3 daughter and they are at the perfect age for dolls. Thanks for your help.

 

Cheralyn (greenmnm5)

 

for the easy part "sk" does mean skip.

 

the FPhdc stands for Front Post half double crochet. If you are not familiar with Post stitches you might find this video helpful.

 

as to row 8... I think you should leave out the ch 1 - looks like a typo to me

 

[ch 3, sk 1, ch1, sc in next]

 

I have removed it from the OP. Thank you for finding that one. :hug

 

You might also want to join my Ygroup named duds for doras. All my patterns are there in one place.

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omg thank you so much for your hard work designing this set...i was stumped about what to make my niece for Christmas this year...last year she got her doll, the dress that the kit came with and your four seasons set...she loved it and i was trying to decide what to do this year now i know this set is going to be under the tree for Harlee and Girl(she named her doll that)

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Thank you for the quick reply and help. I was able to finish the shirt and show my daughters friend how to make one as well make another one myself. I have now made 3 and they are just adorable and work perfect for my daughters cabbage patch doll and my other daughters Strawberry Shortcake doll and my daughters friends American Girl doll. My daughter is 10 and her friend is 12 and they were both able to make one so the patterns are great and I look forward to trying more. :)

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