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Yesteryear - Baby 18" doll - lots of pics Brim added


darski

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Yesteryear– Baby-18” :pinterest

 

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Knickers: 5.mm hook navy blue WW yarn.

 

Special stitches FP dc/tr and FPtr/dc cluster:

 

FPdc/ tr cluster: Yo, working around post of next FPdc, draw through a loop, draw through 2, yo twice, working around next FPdc, draw though a loop, draw through 2 loops twice, draw through 3 loops on hook. Reverse the stitches for the tr/dc cluster.

 

FPtr wing stitch: work a hdc in top of previous FPtr, work FPtr cluster over skipped FPtr and the next FPtr stitch, hdc in top of next FPtr

 

 

7-loop puff st: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64IGQOk3cqM&feature=PlayList&p=6C6981F91195E934&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=3

just work 7 loops instead of 9.

 

 

Knickers…

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Legs : make 2 and do not break off after making 2nd leg.

Work 22 sc over elastic hair band .

 

(please note that there is no pattern for the socks as it is not my pattern. Use any sock pattern you like and work in fine yarn and a small hook)

 

Row 1: [2hdc in 1, hdc in 2] to end

(29hdc) (This worked on my first but not on the second so I fudged to get 29… I have no idea why this happened :eek

 

Row 2-12 : hdc evenly around

 

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

 

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in hdc around the leg sections, Put the first hdc in the same stitch as the sc join.

 

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.

 

hdc to your first marker… work [2hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc] over the five stitches, work 3 dc into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in hdc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

 

Row T2-T: work evenly in hdc.

 

Pocket flaps…

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Row T 10: hdc in 9, ch 6join w/ sl st at side seam 3 rows below. Turn and work hdc along the chain and catching the sts below, continue in hdc towards front but work 2 decreases at the back, hdc up to the 10th last st then repeat the ch 6 pocket flap. Hdc in last 9 sts.

 

Row T11: work a row of hdc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

 

 

 

Sweater…

 

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When you are making your FPdc’s it is very important that you pull up a long thread so that they do not pull your work down.

 

5.mm and 5.5 mm hook and Aran Irish Twist yrn.

Ch 54 w/ 5.mm hook and join w/ sl st

 

Row 1: dc in every ch (54dc)

 

Row 2: [dc in 1, FPdc in next] to end. Join ch1 turn. Change to 5.5mm hook

 

Row 3: & all alternate rows, hdc evenly around.

(54 hdc)

 

Row 4: hdc in 5, [fpdc in 1, hdc in next] x 8, fpdc in next, hdc in 10, [fpdc in 1, hdc in next] x 8, fpdc in next, hdc in 5 join, ch 1, turn.

 

Row 6: hdc in 5, [fpdc in 1, hdc in next] x 8, fpdc in next, hdc in 10, [fpdc in 1, hdc in next] x 8, fpdc in next, hdc in 5 join, ch 1, turn.

 

Row 8: *hdc in 5, FPdc/tr, hdc in 3, FPtr/dc cluster. [hdc, FPdc} 3 times, FPdc/tr cluster, hdc in 3, FPtr/dc cluster, hdc in 5 *. Repeat*-* for other half.

 

Row 10: *hdc in 5,FPdc over FPdc, FPtr wing stitch , FPtr over FPtr, hdc in next, FPdc/tr cluster, hdc in 3, FPtr/dc cluster, hdc in next, FPtr over FPtr, FPtr wing stitch, FPdc over Fpdc, hdc in 5* repeat for other half.

 

Row 12: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc of previous cluster, hdc in next, FPtr cluster over the FPtr from the row below, hdc in 1, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5 * repeat for other half.

 

The front close up: post-4896-135897446416_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Divide for front and back. Work back stitches…

 

Row B14: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in1, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 1, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5. Remember to work alternate rows by turning and working hdc across.

 

 

 

 

Row B16: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 4, work a FP tr crochet cluster over the closest two FPdc stitches

 

Row B18: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 15, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5,

 

Row B20: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, [hdc in next, FPdc over next] 7 times, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5.

 

Row B22: work as established working hdc in hdc and FPdc over FPdc. Break off yarn.

 

Attach yarn for front – you are working on the Right (pattern) side. J

 

Row F14: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, 7loop puff st in next, hdc in next, 7loop puff st in next, FPdc over FPdc, 7loop puff st in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 3, FPdc over FPdc, 7loop puff st in next, FPdc over FPdc, 7loop puff st in next, hdc in next, 7loop puff st in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5.

 

Row F16: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in next, 7 loop puff st in next, hdc in 2, [7 loop puff st in next, hdc in next] 4 times, hdc in next, 7 loop puff st in next, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5.

 

Row F18: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 15, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5.

 

Row F20: hdc in 5, FPdc over FPdc, [hdc in next, FPdc over next] 7 times, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc, hdc in 5.

 

Row F22: DC in 5, FPdc over FPdc, [hdc in next, FPdc over next] 7 times, hdc in next, FPdc over FPdc, DC in 5.

 

Row F23…Shoulders: dc in 2, ch1, sk 1, dc in 2, BPdc over FPdc, hdc in next [bPdc over FPdc, sc in next] 6 times, BPdc over FPdc, hdc in next, BPdc over next, dc in 2, sk1, ch1, dc in 2.

 

Fold the last row of Front over last row of back and stitch together over the edge st. add buttons. I added another set of buttons but I just used the holes from the stitches to make the 2dn buttonhole. I needed more closure there.

 

 

Sleeves.. join yarn in armhole. You will likely need to decrease some stitches as you go. I like to remove sts in the underarm.

 

Hdc around the opening.

 

Work a series of FPdc /hdc stitches in any pattern that suits you for as long as you want your sleeves to be. You can work “ribbed cuffs” using FPdc if you like that look.

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Hat…

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w/ 5.mm hook and WW yarn ch 6…

 

Ribbing: sc in 5, ch 1 turn and work sc in ea sc in Back Loops Only.

 

Continue in ribbing until it fits closely around doll’s head. I got 48 rows and it seems tight enough to work. Join the two ends with sc.

 

Change to 5.5mm hook

 

Row 1: working along the edges of ribbing work hdc in 1, 2 hdc in next. I have 74 sts at this point.

 

Divide the stitches by 6 (fudge if you must) I will be working with 12 sts per segment. These instructions are based on that number. Be prepared to play with yours to have it work in 6 segments.

 

Row 2: hdc in 3, *3 hdc in next, hdc in 11* repeat to end.

 

Row 3: dc in 6, hdc to last 3dc group… hdc in 1st hdc of 3dc group, dc to end

 

 

Row 4: dc in 6, *hdc dec in next, hdc in 3* rep to the dc stitches and dc to last 2 sts, dc dec..

 

Row 5: hdc in 2, *hdc dec in next, hdc in 3* to end. Continue in this decrease pattern working in a continuous round rather than joining each row. Finish with a button to match the hat colour.

 

for the brim...

mark out 15 sts at the front.

 

Row 1: work FPhdc in 3, FPsc in 9, FPhdc in 3

 

Row 2: hdc dec twice, sc in 7, hdc dec twice.

 

Row 3: sc dec, sc to last 2 sts, sc dec. break off and tidy all ends.

 

 

Boots… w/ brown yarn and 5.mm hook

 

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Ch 6

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in 2, 5 hdc in next, hdc in 2, sc in next, another sc in beginning st.

 

Row 2: hdc around working increases only as needed to keep sole flat.

 

Row 3: sc around the edge increasing at ends as needed. (I have 27 sc at this point)

 

Row 4: flip sole good side down and work FPsc into every sc. Ch 1 turn.

 

Row 5: hdc dec, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc dec. Join.

 

Row 6: work around in hdc working 6 decreases at the front. Join and break off.

 

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Tongue attach yarn at front as shown knowing that you will work in 4 stitches.... Work 5 rows of sc over the four sts. Work 2 sc dec over the sts. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

Boot uppers…

Att yarn at front as shown

Work FPsc over sts to get to stitch beside tongue, work around sts in hdc with one decrease at Centre Back, work back to start, join w/ slst in first st, ch 1 and turn,

 

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Work another row of hdc and break off. I worked a dec then an increase to shape the top-> with an increase, dec at the other end.

 

 

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2009

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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