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Babykids 18" BABY -image intense


darski
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Babykids – baby -18” :pinterest

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I discovered this darling little guy and was determined to make him a totally neat outfit. Well we shall see how that goes. :wlol

 

I used RH Comfort yarn in baby blue, yellow, lavender and white. I used a 5.5mm hook

 

 

 

 

The pants are worked from the soles up…

Join all rnds unless otherwise noted.

 

This pic shows the body type for “Paul”post-4896-135897418821_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

The Winter Romper outfit…

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With blue and 5.5mm hook CHAIN 6..

you will end up working from the heel area of the ‘slipper’…

 

Row 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook , sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, 5 hdc in last ch, hdc in next 2, sc in next, 3 more sc in beginning ch, join.. (7sc, 9 hdc)

 

Row 2: 2 sc in first 2 sc, hdc in 4, 2hdc in next4, hdc in 4, 2sc in last 3 sts. (10 sc, 16 hdc)

 

Row 3: flip sole good side down and work FPsc in every st around. Join and turn. (26 FPsc)

 

Row 4: hdc evenly around.

 

I think my joining has migrated a bit so I am giving the overall directions for row 5…

 

Row 5: work in hdc making 3 decreases at the front part and one decrease in the heel area. Break off blue. Tidy all ends (22hdc)

 

Row 6: attach white in heel area. Hdc in 1st, hdc dec , hdc in 6, work 3hdc dec, hdc in 7, hdc dec, join (18 hdc)

 

Row 7: hdc evenly around. Break off white. Tidy all ends.

 

Adding the leg portions… Remember that you will have to make a mirror leg for the second one.

 

 

 

Row 8: attach yellow yarn at inseam, ch 3, dc in same stitch, [dc in 3, 2dc in next] around. Mine didn’t work out evenly either :wlol

 

Row 9: ch 3, dc in same st, [dc in 5, 2dc in next] around. It won’t be even but that’s fine.

 

Row 10 – 12, ch 3, dc in same st. dc around working one increase approximately even with the starting increase /

 

Row 13-14: ch 3, dc in same st, dc around.. Break off.

 

 

Line up the two legs so that the feet are correctly aligned.

 

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Align the two legs , sc together over 5 sts ch 1.

 

Torso Row 1: work dc in the same stitch as last sc join, dc around to the joining at Centre Back, work (dc, Tr) into the right side leg joining stitch, work 3 Tr into the sc of the join, work (Tr, dc) in the left side leg joining st, continue in dc back to beginning, work dc in same stitch as sc joion. Join to first dc

 

T Row2: dc in every dc and Tr around. Join and break off, Tidy all ends. Turn to back…

 

Find what would be The CB stitch and reattach your yellow yarn two stitches to the right but in Front loop only. This overlapping section will allow you to form button holes as you work up the back section. NOTE: you will not join rounds again for this section.

 

T Row 3: ch 3, dc in Front Loop only of the next 2 stitches. Dc (both loops) around to the beginning ch 3, work a dc in each of the 3 back loops that were skipped at the start. Do Not Join. Ch 1 and turn

 

T Row4: Work this row in hdc and make 4 decreases evenly around: one for each back section and 2 over the front. I prefer to keep them closer to the side seams.

 

T Row5: hdc around making 4 decreases that are staggered an over the previous dec. Break off yellow.

T Row 6: attach blue… hdc around making 4 decreases that are staggered an over the previous dec. secure but do not break off.

 

T Row 7: attach white… hdc around making 4 decreases that are staggered an over the previous dec. break off and tidy all ends

 

T Row8:Pick up blue, hdc around . secure and break off blue. Tidy all ends

 

T Row 9: att yellow and work in hdc. Make 4 decreases but this time work them closer to the Centre Front and Centre Back.

 

T Row 10: work evenly in hdc. Break off yellow and tidy ends.

 

T Row 11: attach blue and work evenly in sc. Secure blue but DNBO

 

T Row12: attach white and work evenly in sc. Secure but DNBO.

 

T Row 13: Pick up blue…work evenly in sc. Break off and tidy ends.

 

T Row 14-15: sc evenly around in white

( I have 54 sc at this point)

 

Divide the sections. I flattened the suit at this point and counted how the stitches were distributed. I have 24 sc for the front section. I have 14 sc for the back left section, I have 14 sc for the back right section and 2 sc are left open-> one at each of the armholes.

 

Right back section…

>Sc evenly over 14 sts for 4 rows.

>Sc in 8, hdc in 6

>Hdc in 6, sc in 8.

>Sc in 8, hdc in 6,

>Hdc in 6, sc in 6, sc dec. break off

 

Front section…

Skip one stitch next to Right back and attach blue:

 

>Sc in 24,,

>sc dec, sc in 20, sc dec.

> sc in 22, secure but DNBO blue

>att lavender, [sc in 1, long sc in next across to last sc, sc in sc.. Break off lavender.

>pick up blue, sc across

>hdc on 6, sc in 10, hdc in 6,

>hdc on 6, sc in 10, hdc in 6,

>hdc on 6, sc in 10, hdc in 6.

 

Work left back section to match Rt section but add in buttonholes as you go. Mind your shoulder placement on the mirrored section.

 

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Neck and edging. Attach blue in the lower left side opening, sc along back edge, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next two, connect to neck edge w/ sl st, sl st to next st, work sc ribbing in previous row of neck sc. { Sc ribbing is to work sc in Back loops only for every stitch, turn and repeat) continue to work ribbing and attaching to the neck edge stitches. Sc along the right back edge, secure and break off. Tidy all ends.

 

 

 

Sleeves, attach white in sleeve base and work around opening.. On the first three rows work sc then hdc then dc as your work up to the sleeve cap and dc, hdc, sc as you go back to the bottom. You may find that you want a decrease or 2 to make nicer sleeves; work decreases at the base and not at the sleeve cap.

 

Work 7 more rows of dc. Break off and tidy all ends.

 

 

The Hat.. with blue and 5.5mm hook…

 

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Row 1: Ch 3, 9 dc in 3rd ch from hook,

 

Row 2: 2 dc in every dc, (20 dc)

 

Row 3: dc in 1, 2dc in next around,. (30 dc)

 

Row 4: Dc in 2, 2dc in next around. Secure but do not break off blue. (40 dc)

 

Row 5: Attach yellow in any stitch. Work Sc, Long Sc around. (break off and secure yellow.

 

Long sc is to work sc in the row below instead of the current row.

http://www.crochetcabana.com/stitches/stitches-long-stitches.htm

 

Row 6-7: pick up blue again. Work evenly in dc. Break off and secure blue. Tidy all ends.

 

Row 8: attach white and work evenly in dc.

 

Row 9: At this point, put the hat on your doll and mark out 5 stitches over each ear for the earflaps. Place markers. *Sc to first marker,

. sc to next marker (same ear), ch 1 turn

. sc across 5, ch 1 turn, (5sc earflaps sts)

. sc dec, sc in next, sc dec. ch 1 turn

. double sc dec over the 3 sts ,

. sc down the edge of your earflap and repeat from * to make second earflap.

Sc to beginning and join. Break off and secure white. Tidy all ends.

 

At this point you can form ties from the earflaps in any way that works for you. I attached the blue yarn, ch 35, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 2 sc in same st as dc, work sl st along chain. Break off. Tidy all ends

 

 

 

The BlankieIn white with 6.5mm hook

 

 

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The stitch pattern is a multiple of 3 plus 2.

 

Ch 62, sc in 2nd ch from hook,. *ch 2, sk 2, sc in next ch* across. Sc in last ch. ch 1 and turn

Row 2: sc in 1st sc, * ch 2, sc in next ch 2 space* repeat to end, sc in last sc. Ch 1 and turn.

 

Continue working row two until your blankie is square. I ended up with 47 rows.

 

NOTE: The edging on this blankie is ruffled. I did that on purpose to present an image of abundance and plenty for “Paul”

 

Work a ch 3 mesh foundation row along the edges.

. On the sides, work: ch 3, sc into every other row.

. Along the top and bottom edge work ch 3, sc in sc.

 

Fudge if you must to make sure the sides are equal. (I have no idea why these things go whacky on me but they do so I learn to fudge as needed :wlol )

I have 23 ch 3 spaces along the sides and 20 for top and bottom.

 

The edging…

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Row 1: ch 3, dc in same st, V-st (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch 3 space along the side, 3dc in corner stitch. Continue to work V-sts in ch 3 spaces and 3dc in the corners. End with one more dc in beginning st. Break off white and tidy all ends.

 

At this point I would strongly suggest that you just work whatever border you would like. My instructions fo the corners are just what I did and may be hard to follow. Do whatever you want for your blankie is my personal recommendation. If you are trying to follow my instructions, keep the pic close by to see what it is supposed to be :rofl

 

 

Row 2: with lavender… attach yarn in any corner. Ch 4, dc in same stitch, dc in next dc, work V-st in V-st all along the row, in corner 3dc- dc in 1st dc, [dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc] in centre dc, dc in next dc. Continue around working the V-st in V-st and the 3dc corner group as explained. End with [dc, ch 1] in beginning stitch and join in 3rd ch of 4 turning ch.

 

Row 3: ch 3, dc in same stitch, [ch 1, dc in next] twice, *V-st in V-st along row, [dc in next dc, ch 1] twice, 3dc in next dc, [ch1, dc in next dc]twice* repeat around ending with one more dc in beginning st. Break off lavender and tidy all ends.

 

Row 4: attach blue in any V-st. work a V-st in every V-st and work corners as

[2 dc in next dc] twice, ch1, dc in next dc, V-st in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc] twice.

 

Row 5: Continue with V-st in every V-st and for corners:

Work 5 dc shell between 2dc groups, (dc in next dc, ch1) twice, V-st in V-st, (ch 1, dc in next dc) twice, 5 dc shell between 2dc groups.. Break off blue.

 

Row 6: attach yellow in any V-st.. Work (sc, ch 3, sc in each V-st) ch 1…

For corners, sc in 1st dc of 5dc shell, (ch 3, sc) in next 4 dc, sk 1 dc, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in next dc, dc in next ch 1 space, 2 dc n next dc, 3 dc in V-st, 2 dc in next dc, sc in ch 1 sp, sc in 1st dc of 5dc shell, (ch 3, sc) in next 4 dc, ch 1 and go back to instructions for V-sts

 

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2009

 

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

 

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
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Wow!! That is a really nice outfit!! My 6 yr. old granddaughter is standing here looking at your baby. Her "response"--that lady is pretty cool!!

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Awwwwwww!!! Another great Darski doll to add to the collection of great Darski dolls I've already saved. One of these days I'll start making dolls again and I'll have a great stash of patterns - now to find the ink to print them out ;) Thanks!!

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I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

 

 

Hi Darlene,

 

Thank you for allowing other crocheters to use your pattern to create garments to sell. This is one of the few crocheted baby boy items that I would bother to make even if it is for a doll. I could definitely see it as a premie outfit for a real baby as it grows!

 

I can never understand why someone puts a pattern online and then says you can sell the completed garment-why put it out there for people to make if it can't be resold? If I make something from another person's pattern I put a hangtag in it giving that person credit and along with the location of the pattern. And selling a designer's pattern for your own profit is a big no-no in my book; it's almost like selling your child! A lot of love and work go into the making of those designs.

 

Thanks again for the lovely pattern, a winner for sure!

Cathy Champion

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My only concern for this with a preemie is that it might take more jostling than they like to endure. It would depend on the constitution of the preemie I guess.

 

I would guess by the shape and size of the doll, it would likely fit.

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Paul is a very lucky boy-doll to have been in your care!

We are very lucky that you want to share your incredible creativity with us!

:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer:cheer

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  • 7 months later...

Love this outfit, it is sooo hard to find boy outfits. Can you tell me what size doll this is? How long is he and how big around his chest would help me know how to resize for a bigger or smaller doll.

Thanks so much!

Sue

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