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About EagleEye

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/01/1962


  • Real Name
    Marlys D. Vaughan
  • Ravelry ID
  • Biography
    I have been crocheting since the age of 7; I have taught my course, Crocheting Made Easy, professionally for more than 20 years and have been doing heirloom crochet repairs for over 18 years. I do crochet for hire work as well as my own creations.
  • Location
    Salem, MA
  • Interests
    Crocheting, quilting, photography.
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    I have been crocheting since the early 70's
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Baby Afghans, children's sweaters and afghans.
  • Favorite Hook
  1. EagleEye

    Pattern Help

    First, do you have 100 Stitches around? Doublecheck your stitch count. Next the pattern says: 3rd rnd: Ch 3. *1 dcfp around each of next 3 sc. 1 dcbp around each of next 2 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. So be sure you’re joining to the first dcfp stitch. Basically ignore the ch3 that you did at the beginning of the row. Good luck and let us know if it works!
  2. Item has been found. 3-4 skeins of Classic Elite Maya color 3021, dye lot 2138. Can anyone help? Thank you!
  3. Knowing what the abbreviations mean will help you a lot in understanding the pattern you're working on. It looks like they want you to hold the wrong sides together, with the right side of the back facing you. Line up your markers along the lower edge, pin the gusset to the back along the lower edge and sides, then align the upper edges. Then with the right side of the back facing you, use your hook and 1 strand of each color ... begin with the yarn on the hook (as if you're beginning a new crochet project), and join the back and the gusset together using a slip stitch that goes through both pieces. Slip stitch evenly around the piece .. then it looks like they want you to do the same thing for the opposite side of the purse. I don't have a copy of the pattern, so hopefully this will make some sense and help you figure it out. If you need more help, PM me and if you can send a couple of photos via email, I might be able to assist further. Good luck and have fun! EagleEye
  4. EagleEye

    Slipper Bottoms

    Try this: Regia ABS Latex for Slip-Free Socks. You can do an internet search or PM me. I don't think I can "advertise" on the forum. -EagleEye
  5. Still searching ... if anyone has a lead I would appreciate it. EagleEye
  6. A fellow crocheter has her baby blanket 1/2 done and ran out of yarn. She is ISO the “mod ombre” that's in your pack. Would you be interested in selling that skein? Details on the label are: Modele ombre B# W230360 4 ply 12 ounce skein It is a variegated blue, yellow, white green combo I will gladly be the liaison should you be interested. PM me any time and thanks for considering! EagleEye
  7. EagleEye

    I am stuck

    It might be the Diagonal Box Stitch you are referring to: http://www.crochetcabana.com/stitches/diag-box-st.htm Good luck! EagleEye
  8. A fellow crocheter has her baby blanket 1/2 done and ran out of yarn. She is ISO the following: Bernat handicrafter cotton ultrasoft 100% cotton Color code is “mod ombre” Modele ombre B# W230360 4 ply 12 ounce skein It is a variegated blue, yellow, white green combo I will gladly be the liaison should anyone have a skein of this yarn. PM me any time. Thank you, EagleEye
  9. Hi, When the pattern asks you to "mark center 24 sts" the 24 sts are at the sole of the bootie and run from toe to heel. Mark those 24 sts ... I would use a stitch marker at the toe end and one at the heel end so that you will remember that those were your beginning sts. The pattern then goes on to tell you to "work the right hand side of sole..." which is either going from the toe toward the heel, or vise versa. Hope that helps! EagleEye
  10. Hi, Just a quick comment re: the crochet hook. These flexible ones are the best, available at Joann Fabrics and other supply stores. This one is under $5.00. I generally make a large center panel or long strip panels that have a crocheted edging around them then I join the panels. You don't end up with too much of a seam. Otherwise, if you joined squares, you should use a whip stitch (with darning needle and the same color yarn as the squares) which would hide the seam. Hope that helps. EagleEye
  11. ISO: 8-9 skeins Loops & Theads yarn mfg for Michaels Craft Stores: color: 02005 Neopolitan Ombre Lot #: 110313 Will pay for cost of yarn and shipping. Can pay via PayPal. Thanks for your help! EagleEye
  12. Hi, I just saw this note ... I have that pattern, let me go dig it out of my stash and will PM you. EagleEye
  13. Are you using the same size hook? Perhaps you set the scarf down and when you picked it back up you ended up using a smaller sized hook. I teach and I see this happen quite often. From the picture it definitely looks like your tension is getting tighter as you go, or the hook you are using now is at least 1 size smaller than what you began with. Hope this helps - PM me if you need more help/ideas/suggestions! Best wishes, EagleEye
  14. Hi! Generally when working in rounds, you do increase stitches in each round and generally those increases are done evenly around. For instance, say you're making a round chair mat, you'll begin with say, chain 4, slip stitch to join (makes a loop), then chain 3 and do 8 crochets inserting the hook inside the loop, sl st to join. You now have a closed circle with 9 DC (the first ch 3 counts as 1 DC, plus the 8 DC you did in the loop). Then for Row 2, if you picture your circle as a clock, you will make increases at 12, 9, 6 and 3. This way the increases are spaced evenly around the circle. Then with future rows, the increases will all generally occur in the same places as the previous rows. And, if you get 5 or 6 rows completed, set it down on a flat surface and stand back. You will actually be able to see where you've done the increases - they form a pattern within the pattern. Hope that helps! PM me if you need more help. Happy Crocheting! EagleEye
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