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alohadave

Villager
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    26
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About alohadave

  • Rank
    Junior Villager
  • Birthday 04/18/1977

A Few Things About Me

  • Real name
    David Parsons
  • Ravelry ID
  • Location
    Quincy, MA
  • Hobbies
    Photography, Sci-Fi, Reading
  • Favorite hook type
    Wood
  • Favorite projects
    just getting started
  • Crocheting since...
    Since Dec 2012
  1. Or make your field out of Tunisian, and cross stitch into the fabric.
  2. The way I read it is that Row 2 is repeated, not 1 and 2.
  3. The simple answer is that there is no real man's afghan. Everyone has different tastes.
  4. I pull from the center/end and it usually works fine, but sometimes they just tangle, no matter how you pull it.
  5. http://www.ravelry.com/projects/TXCr1cket/chainless-starting-dc-stitch---updated That's what started this, then I googled a couple videos that confirmed this, and called it a DC.
  6. I happened across a video just tonight that showed a double crochet stitch. I thought that I've been making DCs for an afghan I'm working on, but apperently not. What I've been doing is yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2. And what I should have been doing is yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1 loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through 2. Does anyone know what stitch I'm actually doing? I thought maybe it could be a HDC extended, but that is pull through 1, yo, pull through 3. I'm not going to tear back my projects, and I'll keep using the stitch, but it would be nice to know what the stitch is actually called.
  7. I'm making a similar wavy afghan ATM. What it means is that when you get to the end of your row, you will be at the turning chain that started the row below. Putting 2DC in that turning chain means that your edge will remain straight, rather than getting progressivelly narrower. Ch 3, turn dc in first dc : This is your edge. *dc in next 4 dc : This is the downslope dc3tog : This is your valley dc in next 4 dc : This is the upslope 3 dc in next dc* : This is the peak The repeating part is 10 stitches. 4 downslope, 1 valley, 4 upslope, 1 peak. Repeat. The edges are the tricky part of this. The beginning of the row is 2 dc in one stitch, then the 4 dcs of the downslope. At the end of the row, you'll have the 4 stitches of the upslope, then 2 dcs into the previous row's turning chain. The edges are part of a peak stitch (2 instead of the normal 3). It takes a couple rows for it to really come together, but don't be afraid to frog it if you need to. I had to frog mine 4 times before I got everything right. You can see it here: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/alohadave/neat-ripple-pattern Mine uses 2DC in one, and dc2tog instead of the 3DC in one and dc3tog that your pattern uses, but they work exactly the same.
  8. I'm fairly new, and it is a common problem. One thing that I've found that really helps is to get every stitch onto the shank of your hook. Not just the narrow area right under the hook. This will make your stitches a consistent size. Also, make your starting chain really loose, and don't pull on your feed yarn when making it. It'll feel ridiculously loose, but as you work into it, it will tighten and even out. I tension my yarn even when making the starting chain as well. Stitching into the back bump helps as well.
  9. If you don't twist it, it's just a floppy tube. A Möbius strip is a construct that only has one side even though it looks like a circle. It's what makes it infinity.
  10. When you work into the the back bump of your starting chain, it leaves you with the two loops. You work your edging stitches into those two loops, just like if you were working on the top side of your work.
  11. Don't be sorry. The peaks were fine, the valleys though, I couldn't get enough enough decrease with them. I'd stitch them, and they were flat. The top of the stitches were much longer than the rest of the stitches, but it felt like I was keeping the tension the same.
  12. I did some diagramming tonight and figured that. At least I only have to rip out one row. I figure that I can fix it by adding a ch1 between the sets of 4dc. So; dc, dc, ch1, dc, dc.
  13. That's the video for the maroon sample that I made. I was using his pattern, but my tension was messed up and I was getting rippling, and the valleys were pretty flat, I couldn't get enough tension to make the valleys deep enough, and the peaks were ridiculously tight, in addition to my starting chain being too tight. I frogged the whole thing, 5 rows worth, and came up with a compromise solution. I took the valleys from Lucy's pattern, and the peaks from the Crochet Crowd pattern and combined them. So it is dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc in one stitch, 2dc in one stitch, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc3tog, dc3tog, and repeat. It worked fine on the first row, the peaks and valleys were even, and I figured I'd need 16 stitches per set. The second row is a bit wonky, I had to go to 3 dcs between the peaks and valleys to make them line up right. I need to count the stitches in the second row to try to figure out what happened. I'm not sure if the same thing will happen with the third row, but we'll see.
  14. Good to know. I'd love to see the finished piece if you don't mind sharing.
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