Jump to content

cre8tioncrochet

Villager
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cre8tioncrochet

  • Rank
    New Villager
  • Birthday 11/02/1976

A Few Things About Me

  • Real name
    Lorene Eppolite
  • Ravelry ID
  • Short bio
    I am an avid crocheter and blogger though I am new to the blogging world. I have been crocheting almost everyday for the past year. I got back into the craft 3-4 years ago after learning as a child from my beloved grandmother.
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Hobbies
    crocheting, crafting, blogging, cooking, baking, reading
  • Occupation
    stay at home mommy
  • Favorite projects
    hats, baby items, jewelry
  • Crocheting since...
    2009
  1. Ok I have finished the first section (back). I am about to join for the first front. It says with WS facing... how do I know which side is the WS, they look the same... or am I just picking what size I like better? I'm "assuming" that since the first row worked is the RS that the WS is going to be the opposite of the first row, meaning the sl st and tail to begin will be on the left hand side when I'm starting the first front. Anyone???
  2. Lots of free crochet patterns available on my blog as well. http://cre8tioncrochet.com/ Individual posts will be added in time.
  3. pattern can also be found, with pictures, here: http://cre8tioncrochet.com/2013/01/free-slouch-hat-crochet-pattern-miranda-slouch/ Free Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern “Miranda” Adult Slouch Hat This free slouch hat crochet pattern was inspired by a great women, who helped me tremendously and formatted this blog for me, Miranda of Work at Home Adventures. She is the sister to fellow hooker Corina Gray of Stitch 11. Corina and Miranda are also joint owners of the new up and coming free crochet pattern directory The Yarn Box. This slouch hat is an intermediate pattern but can easily be modified for a beginner by changing a few stitches {changes will be in brackets} This pattern is written for adults but you can find the pre-teen to young teen size here (I would estimate that the pre-teen pattern would comfortably fit a 9-14 yo). The sizing is very forgiving because of the design of the hat. More pattern sizes will be coming soon. I have worked this one up using two different types of yarn, Red Heart and Caron’s One Pounder, both work well but I prefer the Caron’s in this application. Abbreviations and Stitches used: st- stitch sk- skip sp- space mc/r- magic circle/ring sl st- slip stitch insert hook, yarn over, pull through, (two loops on hook), pull loop closest to hook through other loop ch- chain sc- single crochet (in beginner version only) insert hook, yarn over, pull through (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops ps- puff stitch yarn over, insert hook, pull through, yarn over, insert hook into same space, yarn over, pull through, ( five loops on hook) yarn over and pull through all five loops dc2tog ps- decrease two together puff stitch- yarn over, insert hook, pull through, yarn over, insert hook into next space, yarn over, pull through, ( five loops on hook) yarn over and pull through all five loops dc- double crochet yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last two loops fpdc- front post double crochet same as double crochet except hook is inserted behind the post (from back to front) of the previous dc and not in the normal space cs sc- crab stitch single crochet worked the like a normal single crochet except done in the opposite direction, you will be working backward along the previous row. Loop will need to be slightly loose to accomplish this. Pull up slightly on loop and insert it into the previous space, yarn over and pull through, repeat until end. Notes: Like most of my patterns this hat is worked as seamlessly as possible. Instructions are in pattern. You will know that you are working in the right way because all decreases and increases will end in the last space. Materials: Worsted weight acrylic yarn- Red Heart, Caron’s One Pounder, Vanna’s Choice, etc 5.0mm hook tapestry needle for weaving in ends Pattern: mc/r with 10 ps inside ring, join with sl st to close, pull tight ch1, sk next sp, 2ps in every sp, last two stitches will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <20st> ch1, sk next sp, ps around, working 2ps into every other sp (1ps, 2ps, 1 ps, 2ps around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <30st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 3rd sp (1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <40st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 4th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <50st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 5th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <60st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 6th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <70st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 7th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <80st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 8th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <90st> ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 9th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1sp, 1sp, 1sp, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <100st> ch1, sk next sp, ps around working 1ps in every stitch, last ps will be placed in previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <100st> ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 9th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <90st> ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 8th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <80st> ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 7th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <70st> ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 6th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <60st> ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 5th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <50st> ch 1, sk next sp, 1dc in every sp around, sl st (in sp before 1st dc) to join <50st> {for beginner, or if you do not want to do front post crochet around, make 5-6 rows of sc instead and finish with one row of sl st} ch1, sk next sp, 1dc in next sp, 1fpdc in next sp, work around alternating dc and fpdc, last dc will be placed in previous sk sp, sl st (in space before 1st dc) to join <50st> ch1, sk next sp, 1dc in next sp, 1fpdc in next sp, work around alternating dc and fpdc, last fpdc will be placed in previous sk sp, sl st (in space before 1st dc) to join <50st> cs around to finish <50 st>. To finish you will cut yarn about 6” long after last cs (do not sl st to join) and pull yarn all the way through after completing st. Thread tapestry needle and insert into the sp between the loop of first cs, pull through to inside of hat and secure with knot, weave in ends to finish. Weave in tail of mc/r. Free Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern
×
×
  • Create New...