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About DogCatMom

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  • Birthday 08/28/1961

A Few Things About Me

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    S.F. Bay Area
  1. Bailey4 and FrLopLady: Thank you for your help/clarifications. I have several projects going, but they're split between crochet and...knitting, and none of them are going very quickly. I was just confused about the "CAL" part. For this year, I think I'll chip away at the accumulated stash, which heaven knows needs to happen!
  2. Hi, Ladies, from off the edge of the earth. I've read the first post from the moderator but am still not clear on the Stashbusting CAL. 1) I understand the Stashbusting part--we use as much yarn as possible to get it out of the overburdened (definitely overburdened in my case!) stash. 2) But what is the CAL part about? Are we also working on a group project(s)? Has a group afghan been sent to the ill moderator CLLinda? Are other CALs being offered for us to participate in? If so, where can I find more about them? If not, why is this called a "Stashbusting CAL" rather than simply a Stashbust or Stash-Out? I went Cold Sheep (a Ravelry term) unofficially for 2013 and have purchased yarn only at Stitches West and then, only two or three smallish skeins. Absolutely restrained, if any of you have ever been to a big yarn show or warehouse.... But please improve my understanding of the Stashbusting CAL. I've been away and out of things for quite a while; it's been a weird, wild, and sometimes overwhelming journey since I was last here in (maybe?) January 2012. DogCatMom (current count is 2 dogs, 3 cats, but only 1 of the dogs and 2 of the cats were with me in Jan 2012; a different 2nd dog was here...)
  3. Thanks for the links! I was unable to see the LionBrand afghan clearly enough to tell how well the directions would result in the photographed piece, so I went to the "Greenway" PDF and made a very small sample. The Greenway instrux say that the crocheter needs a multiple of 8 sts + 1, so I "cast on" (chained) 17 sts. Then, in the 5th chain from the hook (per instrux), I did the dc3tog, sc, dc3tog and finished the "Set-Up Row." Agreed: it's pretty wobbly, and I suspect it will stay that way for several rows. I did Row 1, with the dc6tog process, and it's a good thing I already know how to do it! Remember that the "Greenway" afghan is only one project from a BOOK of them, and there's probably an introductory section in the BOOK with special stitches illustrated and explained. Like dc6tog, dc9tog, or however many a particular pattern calls for. The "Catherine's Wheel" and "Catherine's Diamond" stitch patterns shown on p. 145 of Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Crochet look very similar to the two afghan PDFs you provided links for. The Wheel calls for a multiple of 10 sts + 1 and requires dc7togs and dc4togs. The Diamond calls for a multiple of 8 sts + 1 and requires dc9togs and dc5togs. Unfortunately, Kooler doesn't provide a "Starburst" stitch, but any fan/shell pattern which provides mirrored halves of a "wheel / fan / diamond" in alternating rows will give a similar overall effect. Depending on how much color work you're willing to put yourself through, you can have lots of colors (the Greenway approach) or a gently undulating bed cover of what look to me personally like cowrie shells. *Nice* cowrie shells! The two most important aspects of making a dc_tog are 1) to work with very stretchy yarn (my experience with RHSS is that it doesn't stretch quite enough for this maneuver) and 2) to remember NOT to work the dc completely: leave the last loop for each st on the hook until all the sts have been worked partway; THEN "straighten up" the loops by gently pulling the hook away from the piece to give yourself a little working room to pull the yarn through. My sample was worked with some anonymous acrylic yarn (worsted weight) and a Boye "I" hook. The gentle point at the top of the hook is critical for the multiple dcs; a completely round head will make anyone crazy working this st pattern. HTH DCM
  4. There are several reference books which crocheters refer to as a "bible." Which one specifically are you referring to? And do you have a specific reference for the "Catherine Wheel" stitch? Different authors can use the same term to refer to different stitches.... DCM
  5. There's a whole forum on Bead Crochet here at Crochetville. Maybe some of the threads have the info you're looking for? DCM
  6. DogCatMom

    Ldc Lhdc?

    Are you sure it's not a Linked Half-Double Crochet? link goes to a C'ville video in the video/tutorial forum. DCM
  7. Does the baby or the mother/father have any allergies? I can't use Bounce dryer sheets with fragrance, but I *can and do* use Bounce dryer sheets without the fragrance. DCM
  8. I've seen recommendations for 100% wool and 100% cotton. But, as stated above, NO ACRYLIC, no polyester, no plastic of any kind. If these get too hot, they will MELT into the skin. Wool and cotton will not. DCM
  9. To be very precise, she used more than 1 ball/skein of yarn to make the 84" long scarf. She may not have used every inch of the second ball/skein, but if you want to make the same length scarf she shows in her PDF, you'll need 2 balls/skeins of the baby DK weight yarn so as not to run short. 100 g = 3.5 oz. Correct. If you end up purchasing yarn in smaller put-ups, 50 g = 1.75 oz. Yarns are categorized into six general weight classes. See this thread here at Crochetville for a chart. DK Weight, also referred to as "light worsted," is Category 3. Regular worsted weight is Category 4. Sometimes the categories are shown on ball bands; sometimes (esp. with yarns made outside North America) not. The yarn chart also shows the hook sizes (for knitters, needle sizes) and stitches per inch to expect from DK weight yarns when making gauge, or at least being in the ballpark. If you can't find the exact yarn the pattern calls for, another yarn of similar "ingredients" (nylon + acrylic) and similar weight (Category 3) with similar hook/needle and stitch numbers should work just fine. Scarves aren't a very fitted item, so there's a lot of wiggle room! DCM
  10. The previous post was dated 30 September 2008; I don't know if the OP is still active here. DCM
  11. The Stitch Diva, Jennifer Hansen, has tutorials on Hairpin Lace at her website. Maybe one of them will answer your question. There's also a link here at Crochetville to the Stitch Diva tutorials, and a Master Directory of PlayLists which may lead to additional Hairpin Lace tutorials. Hope this helps. DCM
  12. Make it a LOT easier: don't use a second yarn. Make the skull in, say, reverse stockinette. That is, if the body of the hat is st st, the skull will be in purl. Very subtle, and only you and he will know it's there. Bonuses: you won't have to purchase new yarn. you won't have to carry extra yarn across the back. you won't have to learn stranded-yarn techniques, if you don't already know them. DCM
  13. One thing I've never understood about Project Linus and maybe someone here can answer: As a quilter, we're told to use *only* cotton fabrics and preferably cotton-based battings for the children's quilts due to fire hazards. But for knitted and crocheted afghans, we're requested to use acrylic yarns for washability. Now, acrylic = polyester, precisely the kind of fiber that the Linus Project requests quilters NOT to use due to fire hazards. Can anyone shed light on this apparent contradiction? Thank you! DCM
  14. Maybe some of the threads in the forum on Bead Crochet would have the info you're looking for. Good luck! DCM
  15. Do you prefer wool (sheep)? acrylic? I can do one or two. DCM
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