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About chirpy

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  • Birthday 06/18/1968

A Few Things About Me

  • Location
    Great Lakes - Western Edge
  • Hobbies
    Tunisian Crochet, Reading, Pets/Animals of all kinds, Photography, Writing, Craft Painting
  • Occupation
    Self employed - but not very successfully, yet.
  • Favorite projects
    So far I've only made mittens and rectangular shawls. Would like to learn to make a triangular shawl in tunisian, and eventually make a large blanket/afghan in tunisian blocks.
  • Crocheting since...
    Learned as a child. Just started again in 2008. Taught myself Tunisian in late 2009 and I LOVE it.
  1. Oh great info! Thank you both. I think I'll be able to make one up after I look through these samples a little more. THANK YOU
  2. Hi all, My guy just said he thought it would be really cool to have a toboggan hat that looks like the old french traders used to wear in early US history. I can sort of picture it - I know they were really long and pointed. I can't remember HOW long though. Did the point only come down to the neck or did it reach mid back? shoulders? He said he thought they were striped - that rings a bell for me, too. I can't find any pictures on line. Obviously I'm googling wrong. Anyone see any pictures on line? Anyone have ideas on how you'd construct one? I'm wanting to do it in Tunisian Crochet, so I would need to seam it up the back. However, if your pattern is regular crochet, please show me anyway so I might use it to figure out what I'm going to do. I've never done a hat - but I've done shawls and a sweater. I guess I could bluff my way through this hat - if only I had a picture. Help??
  3. Thanks Kathy. Yes, I have more than enough of this yarn. That's probably the best suggestion - swatch and test. Cross your fingers for me!
  4. Thank you, Kathy! Hmm. Now I don't know which option to go with. Which would you do, if this was yours? Although I was hating the holes - I'm not anymore. Especially if they had the two rows of single crochet and then they were seamed up. (Edit to add: but not the bulkier way of hiding the holes in a sc stitch) I honestly can NOT decide. Can we take a vote?
  5. Thanks for taking the time to help me, Grandmalolly. Well, I tried that, but it didn't help me hide the holey nature of row ends that I'm seaming together. I read in a book that said sometimes you can put two rows of single crochet along the edges, and then seam those together so you're working with something more solid. What do you think of that? I'm attaching a picture - if I can get this to work.
  6. Hi All, I plunged in to make my very first sweater all by myself without a pattern. Details: Type of sweater: V-neck cardigan. Type of closure: buttons Made in: 3 pieces - front left, front right and back. (Sleeves not made yet) Stitches: Tunisian Simple Stitch Yarn: Lace-weight merino. Needle size: J or 6mm Tunisian Hook This made a nice loose stitch - big hook, fine yarn. I like how each of the three pieces turned out. I plan to use single crochet border all around the edges and to make button holes etc. PROBLEM: The edges of each piece - the beginning and ends of each row - are a little more open and loose than the rest. If I slip stitch the edges as I planned, it looks like the seams are lacier and holier (is that a word?) than the rest of the fabric. Bummed about that, I tried to make a seam like I would if I was sewing fabric - with a seam allowance that ends up inside the sweater - sewing like sewing fabric - but is that a way to do it that would be acceptable? I have never seamed together anything in my life in crochet. I have read a great deal of conflicting advice, with very few pictures. Help? What would you do? I think I can post pictures when my camera battery recharges.
  7. Thank you, Monique. I wouldn't mind writing up directions if anyone would like them. Although I have to warn you, I don't know how to write a pattern, I've never done it. I am making a second one now and making it just a little wider. If anyone wants me to take pics of certain steps or anything, I'll try to do it.
  8. That is just the coolest story - from the perspective of the giver AND the receiver. WOW. I thought the bag was really pretty in the original pics - but it looks prettier still with these new pics to show it off. What a wonderful story - what great people.
  9. Thank you all, very much. You've made me feel very good about my work.
  10. Thank you all very much. Can't tell you what a boost it is to read all these kind messages each morning. Happy Stitcher - thank you for those ideas and links! I'm definitely going to have to join that Tunisian group. I thought I had found one ages ago and lost the address - so I'm so glad you turned that up for me. I have heard the word entrelac but I don't know what it is - so I'm going to go read that other link you gave me. So exciting. Thank you again.
  11. You all really put a big smile on my face. Thank you very much. Feels so good to get feedback from you all. Anyone who is considering trying Tunisian, give it a try. You can even practice using a regular crochet hook before you buy a long Tunisian one. For a while I just put my rubbery hook grip dangling off the handle end to keep any yarn from falling off the edge. Worked fine although it looked silly. I made another shawl out of worsted weight in standard simple stitch with the same j-hook, and it is like a beautiful rug - so cozy and tightly woven, I love it. That one was as easy as it gets to make, too. Give it a try. I probably still have the youtube videos bookmarked that helped me learn if anyone wants the addresses just pm me and I'll look them up.
  12. Thank you, Valery. It isn't hard at all. It would be good to first learn the tunisian simple stitch. The chain and the first few rows are a little hard to hold onto, especially if you use a small hook since the piece will roll up, but after you have a few rows it is no trouble at all even with a smaller hook. With a very large hook, there was no rolling/curling at all to fend off. After you practice the simple stitch, the double is just one small extra step. You hook the yarn once before inserting it, and then hook through again to complete that stitch. You'll have a stitch standing up just like regular tunisian - but you made extra height with that yarn over step. The return row is exactly like any other tunisian stitch return row. The only catch to all this is that double tunisian crochet requires you to hold the stitch with your fingers while you're inserting the hook - it helps keep the stitches all the same height. When I didn't hold the stitch between my fingers the heights would be uneven. I could show you much easier than explain it. I bet this doesn't make sense if you can't see it. Trust me - once you do it, you'll say, "this is easy!" Thank you, Quiet Dissident. PS: I should have added this: on the final stitch of the row, instead of putting the hook behind only the front vertical bar, I put the hook behind the front bar and another bar at the back of the piece, which gave it a finished edge. You're all making me have a very good day!
  13. Karen, I just went to look at your blog and found your doilies posted here. http://ukrakovianki.blogspot.com/2009/01/work-of-her-fingers.html How completely delicate and beautiful! I'm sure you'd have no trouble at all learning more tunisian - you definitely have loads of ability. I picked up what I know through youtube and learned the double on a web site somewhere. One of the added benefits of using the lightweight yarns / thread is that it goes a very long way when the stitches are so open - making the materials much more affordable.
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