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About PuppyMom

  • Rank
    New Villager
  • Birthday 01/31/1953

A Few Things About Me

  • Occupation
    Happily Retired
  • Favorite hook type
  • Favorite projects
    Afghans, Baby Clothes, Scarves
  • Crocheting since...
    Since about 1970
  1. Hi Reni, Thanks for the prompt reply. I see what you mean about going between the stitches at the points, but the pattern I saw actually had the DC "runs" (the rows of DC's in each segment between the points) placed in between the DC's from the row below, not just at the points. I'm actually considering making the pattern you suggested.....it is beautiful. Thanks again, and be well. Pup
  2. I came across this shawl a couple of times on youtube, and can't find it in history. I think it's a half-circle, or 5-pointed "segment" type shawl. Anyway, each segment has a run of double crochets which increase with each row. The difference is that you don't place your new row of DC's directly into the previous row's DC's, but place them in-between the previous row's DC's instead, something I've rarely seen done before. Has anyone seen/done a pattern like this? The effect was really interesting and unusual. Thanks to everyone in advance. Pup
  3. Hi Reni in AZ. No, of course your response isn't too late. I've not run into a jam as far as yarn weight, hook size, etc., but I'm so confused with this one (having completed a gazillion virus-type shawls recently). This one is different in that the "fan" consists of the first row of 31 dc's, then next row is DC, ch-1, DC, etc. The last row is 31 DC's all in a row, which is very different from the usual 3-row sequence (being that the last row has the chain-one's). So then I get in trouble with the next "loopy" row, since there appear to be more DC's in the last row than can accommodate
  4. Hi, I found this beautiful modified virus shawl on YouTube. Having done some other virus shawls in the past, I though this would be a piece of cake...not so. The crocheter has a very thick accent (Russian, I think?), and I'm finding it hard to understand, even with closed captioning. Also the written pattern nomenclature is something I've never seen before, and it's also confusing to me. There is no chart. The main problem is that once I get to row 8, which is the "loopy" row that creates the "base" of the 4-row repeat, the math just doesn't come out. There seem to be 31 doubles into whi
  5. Thanks for the replies, although both were the "B" answer For me, it's just not worth it....I'm going to chalk it up as a learning moment and chuck the whole project. The aggravation, along with the small price I paid for the ball just isn't worth the annoyance.
  6. I'm attempting to make a small doily for our black granite master bath. I'm TRYING to use Royale Metallic Thread #10 in gold, using the suggested size 7 hook. Maybe it's me, but the stuff twists unmercifully back into itself. I've tried everything, from re-winding (my hubby was kind enought to hold onto a horizontal pencil with the ball around it), to using a vertical wooden rod, both methods requiring the ball itself to actually spin, keeping the thread from twisting off the ball. Nothing has worked. I don't have this problem with other #10 thread. I had to get a few other projects out of
  7. Thanks all for your feedback....at least I'm not the only one.
  8. :rantDoes anyone EVER get correct gauge with ANY Lion Brand yarn? I am both a crocheter and knitter, and I have to reduce at least 2 hook or needle sizes to get the ball band gauge. I do crochet and knit a bit loosely, but this brand seems to be the only one which gives me so many consistant problems with gauge. Just wondering..... PuppyMom
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