Kymberlina

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About Kymberlina

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  1. It sounds like you're going to have to improvise. Your best option would be to add an extra final row to the scarf that would create a flat edge, not a scalloped one. For example: if your shell stitch pattern is made with dc, chain 3 at the beginning of the row (or the height of the shell) and the then perhaps working sc and chain stitches across the tops of the shells, so there is a straight line across for your final row. If there are gaps or non-shell sts between the shells, you may need to work taller sts between them, to fill in gaps if need be. Does that make sense? It's difficult to explain it without seeing what the stitch pattern looks like. Do you have a picture? Another option would be to add scallops to your flat end. Join your yarn at the edge and work a row of shell sts across to match the other end. In most cases though this would not look right because all the other shells are going the other way, but I would imagine there are certain stitch patterns out there where it may not be hugely noticable, especially in the more open and lacy shell patterns. Another idea, which may or may not sound appealing to you, is to attach large pompoms to each end.
  2. Here's my latest purse I made a while back. I wanted a lacy, open stitch purse for summer. I used a stitch pattern from a vintage book and used basic metal rings for the handles. I finished it off with a creme colored lining. It was tricky doing the liner, it is definitely not perfect but it'll do. Thanks for looking.
  3. You mean a design like this? The basic shape used for each side of the "cube" is an oblong diamond. Begin with a 1 sc (for the tip of the diamond), increase one st at beginning and end of row, every other row. Work until desire width of diamond. Then proceed to decrease 1 st beginning and end every other row until you're back to having 1 sc. Whip stitch the diamonds together. I'm not sure how the whip stitching will look on the raw edges of the diamond, so you may need to sc around the diamond before finishing it off. If you sc around, work 3sc in each corner to keep them pointed. As far as sizing: Make a test "cube" and measure it before making the afghan. For example, if you were wanting to use the design in the above picture and the test "cube" was 5"x5". Then the finished design on the afghan would be 35"x35" (not including the background, of course). I figured this because the bottom row of the pyramid is 7 cubes across (7x5=35) and the height of the pyramid is 7 cubes high. Now working the background and finishing the afghan in a square or rectangular shape seems a little tricky. You would need to make triangles (in the background color) to fill in the sides and bottom of the pyramid. So they will be straight and not zig-zagged. At first work along each side of the pyramid separately. Join yarn to one side, work across that side only. Turn. Decrease one st at beginning and end of row, every other row until you only have one st left. Repeat on the other side of the pyramid. Now the whole piece (pyramid and background) will be in a rectangular shape. Now you only need to work in the round, around the rectangle until the afghan is the desired size you want. Any characters you may want could be embroidered or maybe crocheted flat and then sewn on. Of course, the other option could be to use a basic graph. I think there are programs or sites online that will graph a picture for you. You can then use it as a guide line for the color work, although I'm not very sure if using a graph would be the best option because it's so geometrical. Definitely worth looking into though. I also see another way of making the design by working a ripple pattern. You may have to experiment first with this method but in the end a lot less sewing. Work a ripple pattern alternating the teal color and the gray color for several rows (look closely at the picture, you'll see a teal diamond and a gray diamond make a "V"). Then sew blue and yellow diamonds across. Repeat for next row of cubes. In designing, things sometimes aren't always as easy as they seem as when you thought them out ahead of time. The real test is actually doing it. This is sort of a very loose guide on what I think may work. Good luck.
  4. Testers found. Thanks! Sent out PM's on when to expect it.
  5. Thanks everyone! Just to clear a few things up... it is not a graph design. It is worked in the round. In the blanket in the photo I never even used an afghan hook, just a regular sized crochet hook. This is because it is done in segments and connected as you work it. Of course, the bigger the blanket got the more loops I had to handle on the hook but never so much so where I had to switch to an afghan hook. Also a note to those interested -- Due to it being sort of complicated to explain in a pattern, I can provide pictures if need be to help explain any parts that may be unclear. I know the pattern to ME makes sense, I just need to know how others interpret it and let me know of any confusing parts, if there are any.
  6. I'm looking for 1 or 2 people to test this pattern. It is based loosely on the tunisian technique so preferably those who are familiar with it. It looks hard but it's very easy to make. Unfortunately, it's sort of hard to explain on paper. Anyone??
  7. Here's another video for right handers
  8. Very nice set! Your baby's eyes are GORGEOUS!
  9. Actually it's not big on me. I know it kinda looks that way in the pic, but it is fitted around my torso. It must be the angle of the picture. This sweater is easily adjustable b/c it is a wrap design, and you can make it as fitted as you like by simply sewing the buttons on more to the side. My gauge matched the pattern but as I said in an earlier post, I had to go down to an F hook to match it, not the suggested H hook the pattern calls for. The pattern writer must be a tight crocheter. Just be sure to check gauge swatch and lightly block it for an accurate measurement. Good luck! .
  10. Here she is in all her glory. My shameless self-photo coupled with my mad Photoshop skills. Overall it was easy to make. I used a little over 12 balls. I'm pretty happy with it, it's not the most flattering piece of clothing but it will get some wear.
  11. I can't remember the name, I through away the label. I got it at a local yarn boutique, it's sort of self-striping, wool/acrylic blend. I also pimped it out with bright pink lining. Doesn't really match but it's all I could find at the time.
  12. Here's what I have as of yesterday I'm making size medium. I have over half the corset done now, I should have it done by tomorrow. I still need to go out and get some buttons, I would like to get some wooden ones, if I can.
  13. I love everyone's bags! Just thought I'd share the one I made a while back.
  14. Hey guys. I've started this sweater, I hadn't posted anything b/c I thought no one else really wanted to make it. I've got the main body part done and blocked and now I am working on the corset. I'm using Knit Picks Shine Sport in Creme. Also a word of warning: The pattern recommends a yarn substitute of a worsted weight alpaca blend. I went to the Knit Picks site and looked up the yarn it suggests and it is sport weight. I decided to use Shine Sport instead b/c it according to the label both yarns knit up to the same gauge and b/c it is way cheaper! I also want to point out the pattern calls for a H hook but I had to go down to a F hook to obtain gauge, and I do not consider myself a loose crocheter. So it's very important to make a gauge swatch, block it and then measure gauge. I also think I found an error in the pattern. On the last rows of the Left and Right Front panels you need to Chain 3, instead of chaining 5 so it will match the back. I can't wait to get this done, but first I have to get through these endless sc's first. I love the yarn, it's $2.49 a ball, it's a cotton blend and it has a nice drape perfect for the pattern. I haven't been taking progress pics but here is the yarn I'm using... I'll post more pics later.