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Everything posted by amydepew

  1. I can't remember who asked, but to clarify, it is best if you measure from the outside of one shoulder to the outside of the other. This will (hopefully) ensure a loose enough fit. I love to see people still making these. I actually made one a few weeks ago in a bulky yarn, minus the sleeves. Just wanted a vest and loved it!
  2. Welcome to Crochetville! I am also in SoCal. Whereabouts are you located? Maybe I can help you attach to a local crochet club.
  3. Welcome to Crochetville! We are happy to have you.
  4. Thanks all! I just feel so proud, and a little giddy. I walked into Barnes & Noble yesterday to buy the Nook for my hubby's xmas present. I wandered over to the newsstand, just to see if it was there. Sure enough, it was! It was such an amazing feeling (and a bit surreal) standing there, in such a large outlet, looking at my own name in print.
  5. My first ever professionally published pattern appears in the Winter 2011 issue of Crochet! magazine. I am so excited! Sweet as Honey jumper (scroll down to the Small Wonders section) And since then, I've had 6 more designs accepted to various outlets. I am really looking forward to 2012, and hoping I grow better as a designer.
  6. Basically a wide, long rectangle with buttons and button holes, this wrap can be made in regular crochet, Tunisian crochet (as shown), knitting, or any combination thereof. It can also be made in any yarn weight and hook/needle combination. Button holes can be spaced out further or closer, depending on the buttons chosen. Totally customizable! Three Button Wrap Enjoy!
  7. You can work the afghan on one hook, but make sure you have a long cable attached. Don't attempt a blanket on a long aluminum or bamboo hook. Can it be done? Well, of course it *can* but...before long that blanket will get very, very heavy on your hook. You will most likely experience wrist fatigue a/o pain. If you use a cabled hook, you can rest the cable portion on your lap while working the stitches. Takes a huge load off!! Or, feel free to work them in sections, Aran style, and then stitch them together later. That also makes for a beautiful effect!
  8. If you are talking about afghan squares made with the afghan stitch (or Tunisian simple stitch)' date=' you may want to check out I made on using the mattress stitch to seam together Tunisian knitted pieces. The seam will look more like stockinette, but will be pretty neat!
  9. Try some Tunisian crochet if you want to expand into new territory!
  10. Here is a fun new stitch to learn for those of you looking to expand your Tunisian crochet repertoire! Bamboo Stitch Beanie
  11. Ah, and it's not just any crochet tabs...those are Tunisian swatches. Awesome! What's that on the bottom though? Kinda looks like the wrong side of sl st rows, or garter stitch...which I am sure it's not since we are talking about a crochet site...
  12. amydepew

    new help!

    No problem! That's what we are here for! Simply eliminate Round 5 and Round 8, but continue with all other directions as listed. That will produce a hat with 48 stitches around instead of 60. Children 2 and older have roughly the same size heads as adults, so by eliminating just one round of increases, and one row of length, you should end up with a hat that should fit a 1-year-old nicely.
  13. This was the reply to an email I sent them a few days ago...
  14. amydepew

    Yarn Help

    800 g = 28 oz 600 g = 21 oz 400 g = 14 oz These are weights more commonly seen in the US. So pick up the amount of thread you need, according to the hook you want to use, and have a blast! I would suggest any of the fashion crochet threads (size 8 or 10 should work) at any of the big box stores.
  15. My take on it? Worked flat, then joined. All rows done sc for some stitches closest to the crown, hdc towards the bottom edge (this variation in stitch size will create a natural crescent). Stitches placed in the horizontal loop *behind* the stitch. And then, as AggieMay said, crown created after tube is created.
  16. I just read through the instructions...what part is giving you trouble, specifically? Is it placing the sl st in a sl st? Or the ch 6 loop? Or something else?
  17. Hey all! I've made a tutorial on using mattress stitch to seam Tunisian knit stitch. So, along with that, I wrote a very simple hat pattern. Enjoy!
  18. I assume you are talking about a blanket done in the afghan stitch (Tunisian crochet)? If so, there are a couple of options... Now that the blanket is done... 1. Add an appropriate border, if possible. Preferably using taller stitches, i.e. double crochet, etc. 2. Block the heck out of it, regardless of the material used. Yes, acrylic can be blocked, too. Next time, before you start... 1. Use a much larger hook for your first forward pass and return row. 2. Make sure your first and last few rows are done in purl stitch or reverse stitch. This will ensure that more weight is distributed to the front of the blanket, rather than the back, as simple stitch (afghan stitch) does. 3. Start your afghan using a chainless foundation row, preferably using taller stitches. Hope this helps and welcome to Crochetville!
  19. amydepew

    Edging for hat

    In that case, I think a shell pattern would be nice... *sc, sk 2, 5dc in next st, sk 2* repeat from * to *. Simple but always pretty.
  20. amydepew

    Edging for hat

    There are so many options, but it would probably help if we knew which pattern you are working on. Ribbed, shell, picot...so many choices!
  21. Dimensions will vary according to how much yarn you use, what the weight is, and the hook size. In the sample though, the final blocked dimensions were 55" wide X 26" tall. I only used one skein of sock weight yarn, so imagine how big it would have been if I had used more yarn! Or heavier yarn!
  22. Enjoy! Materials: GypsyKnits BFL Superwash Wool Fingering weight, appx 385 yds (but any yarn, any yardage will work) J Tunisian (afghan) hook (any hook size will work) Tapestry needle Gauge: not especially important. Abbreviations: tds = Tunisian double stitch (y/o, insert hk, draw up lp, y/o, draw through 2 lps) y/o = yarn over (increase made) lp = loop hk = hook sp = space st = stitch ch = chain Notes: •Ch 1 at the beginning of each row, counts as a tds. •All return rows are as normal: y/o, pull through 1 loop, then y/o and pull through 2 loops for remainder of row. •Yarn-overs, and the spaces created by them, count as stitches and should be worked accordingly. •All stitches are created knitwise, meaning the hook is inserted from front to back, through the fabric. •The fabric will not appear to be perfectly semi-circular. However, a good blocking will remedy the situation regardless of the fiber content used. Pattern: **Read Notes first!** Ch 10 Row 1: With 1 lp on hk, *y/o, pull up next loop*. Repeat from * to * to end of row. Row 2: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row. Row 3: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in next st and y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next 2 st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row. Row 4: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in next 2 st and y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next 3 st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row. Rows 5 – to desired size: continue increasing each section by tdc in each tdc, as well as each y/o sp. Trim/Bind Off Row: Ch 10, sc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), ch 2, sk 3 st, dc next st. *Dc next st, ch 7, sc in 5th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 3 st, dc next st.* Repeat from * to * to end of row. In the event that you are short or over 1 extra st, just sk 2 st for last trim section, or sk 2 for the last 2 sections, to even it out. Finishing: Block the shawl, regardless of the material used, to beat the sway into submission. Blocking matters!
  23. Hope you enjoy my newest free pattern! A Funny Thing Happened
  24. I just made about 1000 of those dtr4tog for a doily...can I just say I've never hated a pattern so much in my whole life. LOL
  25. A question was raised on Ravelry as well...so we have to send in a full item and pattern, without knowing that it was accepted. That's quite a bit of risk...
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