amydepew

Here's a free pattern for y'all! I can't knit to save my life, but I wanted a hat that looked as if it had been knitted. So, I came up with this! I sell this hat in its finished form on my Etsy shop, but I don't think it's a big deal for you to make it and sell it. Afterall, how can you really copywrite rounds and rounds of the same stitch? LOL! Anyway, enjoy! It should be pretty easy, but PM me if you have questions. I attached a pic of how it should look when finished. It's great for men or women. I also included instructions for the child's size. Adult?s Version Approximately 3.5 oz WW yarn; G, H or I (if you crochet tightly like I do) hook Note: beginning chain does not count as a stitch and should be ignored throughout hat, unless otherwise instructed. Also, hat circle will seem floppy at first, but after several rows, the hat will take shape. This is a great pattern to use up scrap yarn as you can add stripes and works great for men. Chain 4, create ring Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to close circle (12 dc) Row 2: Chain 2, 2 fpdc into chain stitch below and in each stitch around, sl st to first fpdc to close circle (24 fpdc) Row 3: Chain 2, *2 fpdc into first fpdc of row below, dc in between fpdc and next fpdc, fpdc into next fpdc of row below, dc in between fpdc and next fpdc* - repeat until the end of the circle, sl st to top of first fpdc (36 fpdc, 24 dc) Row 4: Chain 2, *fpdc into first fpdc of row below, dc in between fpdc and next fpdc, fpdc into next fpdc of row below, dc in dc* - repeat until the end of the circle, sl st to top of first fpdc (36 fpdc, 36 dc) Row 5: Chain 2, *fpdc into each fpdc, bpdc into each dc* - repeat until end of circle, sl st to top of first fpdc (36 fpdc, 36 bpdc) Row 6 to finish ? continue Row 5 until hat reaches desired length. Child?s Version Use I or J hook, depending on the size you want, or how tightly you crochet Chain 4, create ring Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to close circle (12 dc) Row 2: Chain 2, 2 fpdc into chain stitch below and in each stitch around, sl st to first fpdc to close circle (24 fpdc) Row 3: Chain 2, *fpdc into first fpdc of row below, dc in between fpdc and next fpdc, fpdc into next fpdc of row below, dc in between fpdc and next fpdc * - repeat until the end of the circle, sl st to top of first fpdc (24 fpdc, 24 dc) Row 4: Chain 2, *fpdc into each fpdc, bpdc into each dc* - repeat until end of circle, sl st to top of first fpdc (24 fpdc, 24 bpdc) Row 5 to finish ? continue Row 5 until hat reaches desired length. Here's how it should look...if I've made up the pattern correctly...oh, and I included a pic of a child's hat. Hope you like it!

Copied directly from my blog: So, I saw this amazing circle sweater, but alas, it's knitted. Although I've recently learned to knit, I am nowhere near ready for that sweater, or the amount of time it would take to complete said sweater! So, why not make one for myself. I mean, really, it's just a giant circle. Anyway, thought I would share with you all how I made it. Therefore, this isn't really a pattern so much as it is a tutorial. And because of the nature of this pattern, it can be altered to fit a child too. Pinwheel Sweater I used about 7 skeins of Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Serenity Garden in Gems colorway. The package says it's a fine weight yarn, other sources list it as sport weight. I think it's somewhere in between. H hook Fdc (foundation double crochet) - is a link to an excellent video tutorial.Body Note: All stitches are made in dc, so always sk ch 1 sp, unless otherwise noted. Sl st to top of ch 3 to join each round. Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch fr hk (12 dc) Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc, ch 1 in next dc*. Repeat from * to * to end. (12 dc, 12 ch 1) Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 1, *2dc, ch 1 in next dc.* Repeat from * to * to end. (24 dc, 12 ch 1) Ch 3, dc in same st, dc, ch 1, *2dc, dc, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * to end. (36 dc, 12 ch 1) Ch 3, dc in same st, dc, dc, ch 1, *2dc, dc, dc, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * to end. (48 dc, 12 ch 1) Ch 3, dc in same st, dc, dc, dc ch 1, *2dc, dc, dc, dc, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * to end. (60 dc, 12 ch 1) Continue increasing as in pattern above until circle reaches diameter of the distance between your shoulders. For example, mine was 17". Now you are going to make the holes for the sleeves. Continue in pattern until first ch 1. Fdc number of stitches required and reattach at next set of increases by dcing into the first of the two dcs. To make that a bit simpler, let me give you my example. When I made my sleeves, I had 19 st between ch 1 spaces. So, I fdc 19 st and reattached with 2 dc in the next set. Continue as before for the next 7 sets. Fdc number required again and reattach as before. Continue pattern and sl st to join the round. At this point, lay the circle out flat. The distinct pinwheel pattern has 12 sets or sections. There should be 3 sections between the armholes at the top, and there should be 7 sections between the armholes at the bottom. Also at this time, you should try it on to make sure there is enough room between the shoulders and to make sure the armholes are large enough. Continue in pattern until you can put on the sweater and the fronts easily overlap each other, or until you like it. You may find a point where it gets too long in the back for your liking. Just stop there! No rhyme or reason, just make it until you are satisfied. Attached is a pic of what it should look like before attaching the sleeves. Arms Notes: There will be no increases made in the sleeves or they will be way too big! Also, you will not be joining the rounds. Count the number of stitches around and divide by 2; this will be your halfway number. At the point where the fdc joins the sweater, join the yarn and ch 3. Dc next stitch. Continue dc until you reach your halfway number, ch 1, sk 1. Continue with your second half, dcing in each st as you go, until the end. Ch 1, sk 1. Dc in second dc (skipping ch 3 from previous round) and across until you reach ch 1 sp. Dc in ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk 1. *Dc around until ch 1 sp, dc in ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk 1* Repeat from * until you reach the desired length. Try on regularly to make sure of fit. Now, the very nature of this sweater means that it will just fall right off without some sort of closure device. I use a hairpin as a shawl pin, but any shawl pin will do. There is also a pic of the front where you can kinda see my hair pin closure. I hope I made this clear enough! Enjoy! PS - I can't add the pic of the sweater before the sleeves. I guess it's too big. If you need to see it, just click on the link to my blog and the picture will be there.

My first ever professionally published pattern appears in the Winter 2011 issue of Crochet! magazine. I am so excited! Sweet as Honey jumper (scroll down to the Small Wonders section) And since then, I've had 6 more designs accepted to various outlets. I am really looking forward to 2012, and hoping I grow better as a designer.

I have the book but haven't made that size; however, I've made lots of Doris' patterns. PM your specific question and I will see if I can help you.

Sc2tog means single crochet 2 stitches together. In other words, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch and draw up another loop. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook. This is a decrease - you have just turned 2 stitches into 1 stitch.

I actually just made up some antennae today for a friend's bumblebee hat. Feel free to try it out. Round 1: Make 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around. Round 3 - 4: Sc in each sc around. Round 5: Sc2tog 6 times around. Stuff with polyfil. Rounds 6 - ?: Sc in each sc around. Continue until desired length is reached, stuffing with polyfil along the way. Fasten off at desired length, leaving a long tail. Use tail to sew antenna onto hat.

How exciting!!!! Congratulations!!

Are you going to be working in the round? If so work a designated number of stitches separated by a ch 1 space. On the next round, work 2 stitches in the first stitch, work one stitch in each stitch across to the next ch 1 sp. Ch 1, skip the space. Repeat. These instructions will help you if you intend on increasing. If you do not wish to increase, simply stitch 2 stitches together right before the ch 1 sp. That way, each round will still have the same number of stitches, but you will still create a swirl. Hope that helps!

What an interesting read! Thanks so much for sharing! I especially enjoyed her indignation against the evils of machine-made netting. LOL

Doesn't that just figure?

Gosh, if I remember correctly, the pattern excludes the ch 1. However, it seems to me that you can do it either way: keep the ch 1 if you need a little extra armhole space, eliminate it if you don't. On the following round, you will make a ch 1 space anyway, thus picking up right where you left off. As for the twisting, I don't see it. Looks great from where I'm sitting!

Before you yarn over and draw through the last two loops on your hook, change color. Use the new color to complete the last action of the stitch, and the color change will be seamless. Now, another concern is how and where you keep your yarn in the back of your work. This won't be much of an issue if working in the round, but if working back and forth, you will need to work a bit harder at hiding the new and old colors. It will also matter how far apart the different color stitches are. If you carry the second color along the back for too long, you run the risk of it pulling stitches too tight. HTH!

That is super cute!

That yarn is gorgeous! I, too, hope you have enough yarn - that would be a huge bummer to get stuck short. On the other hand, you could use a complimentary yarn, if necessary, as a border color.

Although I agree her patterns are cute, those are still basic cables, made of front and back post stitches. They are not new inventions; just new terminology for the same stitch.

Deeply Textured Hat heavy ww yarn (aran yarn)/ J hook **Gauge is not particularly important as I think it should fit just about any adult. However, my gauge on this hat was 2 row heights = 1" ** Stitches to know - dc (double crochet), . Click on the link if you are unsure about the fptc. NOTE: sl st to join each round Round 1: Ch 4, 11 dc into 4th ch from hook (12 dc) R2: Ch 3 (counts as dc from here out), dc into same st, 2 dc into next st and each st around. (24 dc) R3: Repeat R2 (48 dc) R4: Ch 3, dc into same st, dc next 3 st. *2 dc next st, dc next 3 st* Repeat from * to end. (60 dc) R5: Ch 3, fptc around same st, *dc next st, fptc next st* Repeat from * to end. (30 dc, 30 fptc) R6: Ch 3, fptc around first dc from previous round, *dc into fptc from previous round, fptc next* Repeat from * to end. R7: Repeat R6 until you reach your desired length. Finish with one round sc in each st. FYI: I have a total of 14 rows = 7". Feel free to destash some of your scrap yarn by adding a stripe or two. On the gray version I created a whole round in the green, and one row sc. On the brown version, I just did the sc round in blue. I only had the tiniest bit of that blue in my stash, and now it's gone! Another note - if you choose to use a lighter weight worsted yarn, you may want to increase your crown stitch count to 72, depending on how tightly you crochet. Well, hope you enjoy! Can't wait to see how it turns out for everyone!

Here is a fun, easy way to bust some stash and keep your ears warm. Tunisian Knit Headband

Check out the third paragraph on this page. As I suspected, it sounds like the doily is turned into glass after it's made. How do people think of that? So awe-inspiring...

Actually, I am thinking thread that gets treated afterward with silica, or something similar, that becomes glass when fired. But my guess is that she makes her doilies first out of thread...just like the rest of us. However, unlike the rest of us, she turns her doilies into magic.

Well call me confused. You cannot knit or crochet with molten glass. And the statement that each item is made by hand and then goes through several firings to become a fully-formed glassed vessel indicates to me that she is actually crocheting with another medium that is treated to *become* glass. Which is still very cool...

Hey Deb, would anyone in your group be interested in teaching seniors to knit/crochet? The Activity Director, Kelly Cabana, at Vista Del Mar Senior Living center (on Magnolia, 90806) is looking. Let me know and I can send you her email address.

OK - the photos you were looking at actually appear to be Tunisian simple stitch done on a double-ended hook. I see that it lists star stitch as a name for Tunisian, but I would question the accuracy of that statement. Typically, star stitch is a name given to a regular crochet stitch that also goes by the name of Marguerite stitch.

Copied directly from my blog: I guess it's been awhile, eh? I've been busy. Really, really, really busy (as my 2 year old would say). I am working on my first ever graded (sized) wearable pattern, and it's so fun! But also lots of work. Anyway, to take a little break from the grind, I came up with this new hat pattern. Hope you all enjoy! It was a surprise and an accident how I came upon this stitch technique. I know I didn't invent it, but after hours of scouring the internet, I can tell you almost NO ONE is using it. Hopefully this free pattern will excite others on it and we will start to see it used more. It's incredibly stretchy and would make a great chemo cap. (Hint, hint! My fav chemo cap group is Knots Of Love. If you can, make a hat for them!) Surface Braid hat Materials: I or J hook - I crochet tightly and used a J, but the hat is so stretchy that you will probably want to use an I hook for more form-fitting results ww/aran yarn (probably about 100 yds, but I forgot to weigh it. sorry!) stitch marker (optional but recommended) Notes: This hat is worked seamlessly. Do not join rounds. Use stitch markers if necessary to identify the first stitch in each round. All stitches, after first round, are made into the back spine of the stitch (see video for clear instruction). And, this hat is reversible; either side makes for a great looking hat! Special stitch: Pattern: Round 1: Ch 3, 12 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. (12 hdc) Round 2: 2hdc in of each st around. (24 hdc) Round 3: 2hdc in first st, hdc next st. *2hdc, hdc. Repeat from * to end. (36 hdc) Round 4: 2hdc in first st, hdc next 2 st. *2hdc, hdc 2. Repeat from * to end. (48 hdc) Round 5: 2hdc in first st, hdc next 3 st. *2hdc, hdc 3. Repeat from * to end. (60hdc) Round 6: 2hdc in first st, hdc next 4 st. *2hdc, hdc 4. Repeat from * to end. (72 hdc) Round 7: hdc in each hdc around. Rounds 8 ? end: Repeat Round 7 until desired length (between 7 ? 8? for adult) If making a child?s hat, eliminate Round 6 and Repeat Round 7 until the hat reaches between 6 ? 7? tall. Close up of the stitch definition...you can really see the braided feature sitting on the top of the hat. And, like so many great things, this hat looks just as interesting when turned inside out!

Gosh, I consider myself pretty well versed in Tunisian, but have not heard of such a stitch. Do you have a photo or a reference? Could just be another stitch pattern by another name.

Looks rather like Delta Lace to me. Here is a link to a book written by a fellow C'Ville member on the very subject.