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magiccrochetfan

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Everything posted by magiccrochetfan

  1. Hi Granny Square! Alison, please tell us the name of the pattern, because seeing a picture of it would really help. i wonder if we are all reading it wrong, or maybe I should say it's just not clearly punctuated. It could be that you work until you get to the chain space. Then you chain, not into the space but just into the air. Then you do the dc, ch3, dc, all INTO the chain space. Then you make another ch in the air and make a dc into next stitch. They just didn't express it very clearly.
  2. To me also that doesn't make sense. What is the name and location of the pattern?
  3. You're very welcome Do let us know how it turns out!
  4. for reference, here it is on Ravelry https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/huggable-baby-yoda it does say you can just leave off the bobbles and just make the leg plain, so that is an option. what i would do--assuming the bobbles themselves went ok---is I would just go with what you have, work the 5sc, and continue the leg rounds with 16 st. If it were me and i didn't like the way the bobbles looked, i probably would just leave the toes off and make the legs plain.
  5. It looks to me that it uses eleven sts, so only five left over. So I agree with your results. what is the name and location of the pattern?
  6. yes that does sound like a typo. I'm curious now, what is the name and location of the pattern?
  7. There are apparently two sizes for this pattern. The first number would be for the first size, and the second number would be for the second size. When it says zero, if you are making that size you just don't do that part at all. So if you're making the first size, you start by doing a tr in next 75 sts. I hope that's clear. Do ask whatever else you need to.
  8. Hi, Granny Square On the diagram at first i didn't notice this, but after a while i thought it is working left to right because of the placement of the sl st relative to the ch3 that starts each round. if you worked right to left, the sl st would be to the right of the ch3, but on this it looks like it is to the left, to me. I agree about the many variations of starting places for the rounds in granny square patterns and that this could be worked in either direction---one would just have to adjust a bit for l-to-r as it would'nt look exactly like the diagram. At least that is
  9. It seems to be the same as what you did to start the back, you make the bottom ribbing first and then work up from there. did you fasten off the back piece? Each piece is made separately, then you seam them together.
  10. The symbols look pretty standard to me. The sort of lozenge shaped things are chains, usually they appear as ovals. The construction is a little unusual as far as beginning of each round. It looks like the image may be flipped, or is intended for left handlers who work from left to right. There are tons of Granny pattern diagrams, we could probably suggest some that are a little more standard. Do you need to use this one particularly?
  11. I agree with Granny Square's post. i wondered if it is something like this https://hubpages.com/art/crochet-a-square-and-make-a-cute-bunny-rabbit where you make a square then fold and stuff it to shape the bunny. Found that by searching on ravelry using key words bunny and square, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&query=square bunny&sort=created&view=captioned_thumbs&page=2 You could also add the word Granny to that to search a bit differently.
  12. Certainly you can try that, it may or may not work. I would suggest you first make a swatch to check your gauge. We could offer more thoughts if you would link to the pattern if it's free online, or tell us its name and location.
  13. 1. What round are you working now? Can you link to the pattern if it is free online, or tell us its name and location? 2. Make seven chain sts 3. Put a marker in the fourth of the seven chs 4. Skip over these stitches, just leave them unworked
  14. looking at your closeup pic, if i had to guess, I'd say it looks like it's dc2tog, chain one or two. did you search on Ravelry's listing? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&availability=free&pc=beanie-toque&pa=top-down&source-type=website&sort=recently-popular&view=captioned_thumbs&page=1 You can change the attributes if you want to, for example i didn't narrow it by size but if it was written in a child's size, you could narrow it down that way.
  15. Joanns carries it https://www.joann.com/aunt-lydia-s-size-20-fine-crochet-thread/prd37920.html
  16. That's not usual wording at all. At least I've never seen anything like it. Is the entire pattern written like that, or just the face? Is there any kind of illustration or diagram of the stitches?
  17. I should've just linked the whole search to begin with https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&pc=vest&pa=sideways&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs&page=1 there are several others in there with a similar shape and look.
  18. Another one https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/coastal-breezes-hooked
  19. Like Granny Square, I thought vest would be a good search term. Here's one https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-waterfall-vest It looks pretty simple to make. Be sure to look at all the projects to see different ways to arrange it. Eta, I also used the attribute Sideways for the direction it is worked in.
  20. You need to do exactly what it says: put all 7 of the dc in the third ch from the hook (which will be the first ch you made).
  21. I think it does start with a magic ring: wind yarn around finger, then ch5, then do 2 dtr in ring. personally it works best for me by using the version where you wind around finger twice.
  22. you will have to swatch any yarn and see if you can get gauge or not. I don't know about 10 ply cotton. but the Ashford wool you linked looks a little light to me, but again you have to swatch to know for sure.
  23. the directions aren't written as clearly as they could be, if you transcribed the punctuation exactly. Leaving last loop on hook refers to the 2 dtr, not to the chains. You are right i don't think it is possible to keep a loop on the hook when chaining. what you are to do is make a decrease of the 2 dir. it is the same thing as the 3 dtrtog in the brackets, but in the first case you have to do the 5 ch first to sub for a dtr. tutorial on the dtr tog https://lookatwhatimade.net/crafts/yarn/crochet/crochet-tutorials/crochet-double-treble-cluster-dtr3tog/
  24. That's an odd one! I don't know, unless it means to go into the bottom of that stitch somehow, I guess into the same spot that stitch is anchored. Which seems like it'd be difficult and awkward to do, and I don't know why you'd want to.....unless it's making some kind of fold. could be a typo but I don't know what was intended in that case. what is the name and location of the pattern?
  25. It goes by different names, crazy stitch or brick stitch are two common names for it. You can use different numbers of dc on each stitch block. Here's a tutorial https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-crazy-stitch-in-crochet-4061423
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